As long as it's apart this far. Check the O ring on the boss the slides into the block on the oil pump housing.
Doug

Thanks Doug, I'll look at that when I take it back apart..

Ok guess another thing i need to look for..thank you rick.

Provide a better picture of that pump cover. Looks bad in this image.

Sorry it's all I could find from when I had it off this summer

I'll definitely get better ones here when I get it off soon

Could it be sucking the pan up to the bottom of the pickup?

Hi ZZ long time no see. Post some car pics.

You been to the track with it?

Yo Fast! How are you been?

Haven't ran since 2019, wasn't sure if u knew it's an automatic now..

Not too much has changed on it really..trying to get ambition to work on it again. Lol

Having 2 project cars is tuff, neither one on catching traction on..lol

Hoping to change that anyway

blue RR...last 6 of the vin wouldn't be 253495 would they?

I'd have to look

This was an a/c auto/ console car

Nevermind...the one I'm looking for was no AC auto on the column. My dad's RR he bought new ended up somewhere out there last he heard.
If I could ever find it, I'd love to have it.

Chip, for sure, will try to keep on the lookout.

Here's a few pictures of the oil pump, probably not great, let me know i can get more.

The o ring that goes into the block seamed not too great.

I tried to get pictures of the rotors, have some marks on them

The fitting in the back of the block, one mentioned that's not the fitting for that, anyone know what's supposed to be there?

Thanks

Through thise pump gears don't look great. Unless the clearance is way out of spec they are not the problem. Look at these gears. Broken valve spring happened mid summer. Cleaned out the pan. Ran the car all season after swapping springs. Over the winter motor was serviced. It had held 70 psi at speed .
Doug

Rotors are junk, toss them and replace with new. Debris went through that pump at some time. In fact, a complete new HV pump is a better and inexpensive solution - probably cheaper than just the rotors !!

The pump cover doesn't look too bad - if you replaced it with another aluminum one it would look the same after a week. Its just the nature of the beast - steel rotating parts on an aluminum surface !!

This is the wrong fitting. You need the two shown in the following photos. The first screws into the pump cover and the second replaces the existing end on the hose and will mate to the first one. NO SEALANT is used.

That last fitting is for steel braided hose - if yours isn't steel braided then you'll need the proper fitting for whatever it is. Post a pic.

All those fittings are inexpensive from Summit. The first is a "12an ORB" the second is a "12an hose end"

Pumps are cheap, why would you want to put those back in a motor !!

Bingo! That is not your issue, it is an issue, but it's not going to cause a drop in pressure when running. You are looking for something that allows good pressure when static and low pressure when running. It's either one of two things, If you have a restriction in the oil pump pickup (IE rtv stuck in the screen). Or you have a leak(s) that only happen when the engine is running. I have a feeling that you will find the issue once you pull the intake and valley pan, run the oil pump with a drill and crank the engine with the starter. One other thing to look at, is the oil pump drive gear pinned to the shaft?

Joe

Wow guys, thanks for all the help and suggestions. Thanks for showing all the fittings I need. Its all fragola line.

Yes joe I think oil pump gear is pinned. I attched a picture of thats right? Now you guys got me wondering to pull the pan and check the screen.

I'm guess also after seeing those rotors and still carrying oil pressure, that these are not affecting anything.

No, the gear on the intermediate shaft. Because you primed the pump with a drill and are now trying to drive it with the intermediate shaft. If the drive gear is slipping on the shaft, it will cause the issues you are having.

ya it is not pinned there.

oh boy, that could be, it seamed seated down, but that probably don't mean anything.

As bad as the pump looks it is NOT the issue. You have pressure while using a drill but it goes away running. Something internally is causing the loss of oil pressure not the pump.

If the distributor goes n flush with the block there is nothing wrong with the drive engagement. Still back to something going on internally to cause it to loose pressure when running.

I would try priming it while cranking the engine and see what happens then. Fact remains it has pressure with a drill. So the pump works. It is a question of whats going on with the engine running.