always having done big blocks i know them but loving the gen3 stuff now.(and learning) i have a 06 300 heritage that is a great car but want a bit more power (currently 5.7) want to do a 4" stroke 5.7 n/a nothing crazy, just a good driver. (450-500hp?) my question is cyl heads, should i stay with non eagle or upgrade to eagles? am i losing power by staying non eagle? whats the best bang for the buck?

let me start by saying, if you want to build because you know what goes in it, I understand.
but at that hp level, why not find a 392 someone dropped out. they are right in the middle of your hp ask.
I have been looking for a drop out for a while and I see those going for around 3 to 4k with transmission.
the crate motor ecm runs them and there is no making things work. as that is what I am fighting now.

Search Engine Master series, I believe S7 Ep 4
Eagle heads are good for almost 100hp extra compared to earlier.
Based on the testing they did, no way I'd ever start with a non-Eagle head.

i would love a takeout 392 but i want a bolt in, no re pinning plugs, programming and vvt issues. mechanical i am good with but electrical on newer stuff is out of my skill/comfort zone. Plus, going with a stroker i can buy quality internals as well in case i want to add a power adder.

An eagle head swap, 6.1 cam, and long tube headers will easily get you into that range. You don't even need to touch the bottom end for that little HP. This is hands down the best bang for the buck to get you to that power level.

Don't be afraid of the compression gained from that swap with stock head gaskets, they run fine on 91 octane. This is not an iron headed, iron intake, oil heated intake, coolant heated intake, crappy open chamber, iron headed, 1960s design that detonates at 10 to 1 compression, they are totally fine with 12 to1.

You've ran Eagle headed early 5.7's without the thick head gaskets on pump 91? I have an early 5.7 to go in a swap, and I have a set of Eagles (and Apaches) and was considering using them but didn't want to go with the thicker head gaskets, pushrods etc. I have a 6.1 cam and 6.1 Jeep SRT manifolds for exhaust. Will be using the A518 with a 2500 stall and 4.56 gear

Good info here

https://youtube.com/watch?v=w0JeWpoMCHQ&si=LpraU2lm2yH5FTzC

Yes and the only time it ever showed any activity on the knock sensors was with 87 octane and even then it wasn't much.

What did you do for an intake? The Eagle intake interferes with the pre Eagle block. Grind down the intake/timing cover?

appreciate the replies guys

so my thoughts as of today. 2006 5.7 block. 4" stroker. stock eagle heads (65cc), 10.5-11-1 compression 6.1 intake, headers and ill figure out the cam when the time comes.
so what headers do i use? 09-up?

sound like a ok plan?

Didn't interfere with the timing cover (2006 Charger). I ground a little clearance mostly removing material from the block but also a little from the intake.

Comp 273 cam has been called the 100hp Hemi helper, it's worth about 60 Hp over stock between 4000-5600RPMs, but about 100 over stock when you get into the 6k+ range (https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech-stories/engine/hemi-horsepower-helper-100-horsepower-cam-swap/ ) and that's with the Crappy 03-08 Truck intake and the pre eagle heads.

Just finished up a380CI (3.927 X 3.9)* using the Comp 273 one of those crappy Holly300-930BK** single plane intakes and 105 MM TB , a set of home ported pre Eagle heads, 2.10 Intake and 1.60 Exhaust , made roughly 525RWHP @ 6k RPMs on 93oct and total of 16dgrees and that was through a soon to die from the power 545 trans in a 06 Ram 1500 4x2. Now with a 46RH Trans the HP would be up in the 550hp range.
the secret to getting those Early heads to flow is 6mm valve stem, and port match the upper part of the exhaust port to the round tube header. there's a place in Delaware Called performance injection that has the best CNC program for the early heads , it's about 2k investment, you get 330CFM @650 lift, but then again you can get 300 out of Eagles for about 1k or just bolt on a set of Apaches and get 330 CFM out of the box.

Big issue with the early heads , there is No good intake manifold for them, the old XV wasn't great for the Carb crowd, but was decent in the upper RPM band, gave up some low end, the OEM truck intake gives up about 20FLB of Tq to the LX/300/Magnum intake.

*Pistons = Icon IC650C-010 13.5 CC dome, 10.25 to 1 with the Pre eagle heads, High 13s with the Eagle heads.
Crank Molnar 3.90 with the 2.0 Pin
Rods Eagle CRS6125SO3D

** Holey Intake ports were welded up and then ground down to match the pre Eagle heads.

Eagle head fit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrhSiNPqajk

The Advantage of the Eagle head is, you get 300CFM @ .600 lift out of the box(so to speak) you can run mid .500 lift with the OEM springs, Compression works out to 11.4 to one with .030 stock gasket(yes I've actually measured it. .500 down fill volume is 93.73CC FWIW)
Disadvantage...Intake manifold is PIA , you can use the Holley spacers(3rd strike performance has some too) to keep your OEM intake.... , Irony is this is where the Holley sheet metal Sniper came in handy, you did give up some low end TQ but top end RPM was solid and no drop off @ 7k RPM , The Edlelbrock Intake will work on the Old block with Eagle heads but you're looking at about $1300 now,(manifold plus fuel rail), the Holley 300-930 single plan intake , is doable but has a lack of vacuum options. and then you either have to run an Elbow , and no one makes one with the Hemi TB pattern, you need to use a LS to Hemi adaptor.....OCperformance has a DBW kit for his dual plane intake, I think Joe is still selling his manifold, which is a great option even for EFI .

https://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/SHOP#!/Gen-3-HEMI-Heads-5-7/p/124782581/category=32274346

The Pie Heads (listed above) advantage there is you can keep the engine all stock "looking" and not have to deal with any of the Eagle head issues......Down side is roughly 2k price for heads that flow the same as off the shelf Apache heads.....but here again with Apache heads you have a new set of issues. the 2.14 intake valve kills cylinder pressure with the small 3.917 bore(been there done that) but PULLS like a freight train from 4000rpms to sending the 3 bolt tone wheel out of the block around 7700(that's if the stock style crank drive oil pump doesn't cavate and wreck Oil pressure @7500)