This is a reg cab long bed 2wd. 4.7 engine. A PO had put Firestone airbags on the back. I find myself having to use them more than I thought I would so far in the almost 3 years I've had the truck.
It does have a (I forgot which) class 4 or 5 hitch and a trailer brake box. I know this doesn't count the weight of a trailer but if I remember correctly the GVW on the door is 6600.
We're looking at a bigger camper that were considering.
I want to go back to a 3/4 ton truck but as of yet haven't gotten to. The camper were looking at is something like 5800-5900 as built, empty with no water in the tank, etc. (we don't use the plumbing in our existing camper anyway, I've never put water in it's tanks/ we always look at campgrounds with full amenities -- shower house, etc. so really don't "need" that stuff.
on the camper we're looking at, with full tanks, camping gear etc it's rated for around 8000 lb max. Nearly double what our current unit is rated for with water, gear, and such.
At this point we're pretty much on flat ground, don't go much longer than a couple of hours from here. Maybe 3.

Think I'd be alright to at least get it home (couple of hours away) and possibly a couple of "not too far away" campouts in the spring with this rig?

We had an 11 crew cab shortbed and towed a similar size camper. It had a hemi and didn't lack power.
But, the rear suspension was way too soft and bouncy, even when using the weight distribution.

At a minimum, get good stiff shocks, perhaps adjustable. Weight distribution and some stiffer tires if you don't already have them.

I see Alot of 1/2 tons towing bigger ones than the one I'm considering, looking at the chart above, my same truck (if it had the hemi) would be rated quite a bit higher than mine with the 4.7. I don't think they changed suspension when they put the other optional engines in a truck .. (not because of the engine choice anyway)
Looks like I'm gonna be right at the edge without adding camping gear .. I won't be hauling it full of water anyway...
We're just going for a look today. The camper we're considering is a '97 holiday rambler aluma lite 27CC. Currently we have a (same year) trail manor 3023. And even with that I'm wishing I had a leaf spring truck instead of a coil spring truck.
I have airbags (courtesy of a PO) and do put a quick squirt in them with the trail manor.
I believe the PO hauled a late model dirt track car to the fairgrounds which from where he lived was about a dozen miles away. So probably pretty similar weight to what I'm looking at.
That's why it has the brake box and the airbags.
Though he didn't haul the race car very often (once a week in the summer)
I'm looking at probably once a month but farther than a dozen miles at a time. More like 10x that on average.
What I'd like to find is a nice 80s 3/4 ton like I used to have. Even though that truck was "only"a 318 it seemed to have more balls than the 4.7 in my 12. And I consistently towed heavier loads than this camper with that truck.

I have a 12 quad cab, hemi auto 2wd, 3.92 rear

It pulls my 20ft enclosed fine.,,,,although Fuel mileage takes a hit

I pulled it across country this summer ( twice ) and no problems

If I had to guess Trailer and car inside are something between 6 and 7000 lbs
Trailer has brakes on both axles which I'm sure helps

Problem there is that you have the hemi and I have a (ugh) 4.7

Generally speaking, I've never had a problem with power when towing anything. Stability and stopping are more important to me.

As for bags, keep in mind that just because a truck doesn't squat doesn't mean it's set up right for towing. Coils and bags don't have any inherent self dampening like leaf springs do. That's why I suggested shocks and WD.

The chart I provided a link to above lists two towing weights for your truck, depending on the rear axle ratio:

6,450 (3.55)

7,700 (3.92)

Let's say your truck has the 3.55.

6,450lbs minus 5,900lbs (weight of your trailer), leaves 550lbs for driver, passengers and stuff. Not much leeway there.

If your truck has the 3.92, that leaves 1,800lbs for driver, passengers and stuff.

Figure out your ratio, then decide if you're comfortable with the setup. If you decide to go ahead, make sure your truck's brakes are 100%, trailer brakes are 100% and be safe.

Good luck.

This reminds me of my Sprint Car racer buddy, who towed stuff with a short-wheelbase lowered C10 that had a 305" SB, one of the weakest SBCs ever made.
Most of the time the thing was singing in 2nd or 3rd gear, yet somehow he got about 300,000 miles out of it before stepping up to a 350 - and the work continued.
He eventually got a Dually for his big trailer.

I'm pretty much the opposite - fearing not having enough truck - so anything over maybe 2500 lbs gets hooked to my Dually (GMC 454/T400/4.10s with a GVOD) - 10-11MPG no matter what it's doing.
I guess I'm a wuss !

Both of us are big on trailer brakes.

Just to add here. I did add some air bags under the truck, I'll run them about 50 psi when loaded they help level out the whole rig

They made a noticeable improvement in how the truck reacts to bumpy road conditions

I'm wanting to buy or build (I have most of a truck) an 80s D250 for the purpose. I missed out on a gem last Friday. Before I got off work and had a chance to call it was gone.and I found it at lunch that day!
My 12 has done everything I've asked of it so far without problem, (I do have air bags in back and trailer brake box) but the camper I'm looking at is a little more than I've asked of it so far since I've owned it... I miss my 83 d250 that thing did everything I threw at it and it was a hauling/towing monster

"Tow ratings" are nothing but a manufactures recommendation. If your axle weights are good you'll be fine

Maybe it's me, but if something goes wrong with your trailer setup, someone gets hurt, and a lawyer gets involved, I have the feeling that if you've gone beyond what the manufacturer has recommended, you might not be fine.

Not everyone has a scale on their yard. So all that can be said is to go by truck and trailer ratings

This.

If something goes wrong, and someone gets hurt, and a lawyer gets involved, your going to be screwed anyway.

Lawyers get paid to find a way to redistribute your money into their, and their client's bank account.

especially "their bank account".