Current setup Is a low deck block with 440-1 heads. Thinking about building a 440 (493) with a Edelbrock RPM head. My headers with the current set up are close to my front bars. I know the height difference in the blocks and the different heads should come out to about the same height. What about width though? Is the exhaust port side to side wider or narrower with the low deck and the 440-1 head compared to a tall deck with the Edelbrock RPM head?

I already own a nice balanced 493 rotating assembly for a RB block. Was hoping to build something mild that we could swap in during a weekend if needed so we can keep on racing. Don't want to build it and then find out it wont fit without header mods

If you're close enough you can come by and grab the 440 block i have and mock it up with the heads. You might even buy the block! Hmmm...

All the stock 440 blocks have weak main webbing They will crack, usually between cylinders #1 and3#, if you make above 650 HP and get close to max tune
Your way better off building a 400 block or buy a new RB race block

What Cab said, and I have never been a fan of the stroker motors with small heads on them.

Unless you are using it to tow to the races....

Really just depends on your goals. My 512 definitely falls into what I call a tractor motor. Does exactly what I wanted. Run 11.0 in a heavy vehicle. My wagon is 4200 lbs. I shift at 5400 and next yr will be its 10th season. It's been reliable and maintenance free. I'm sure I just jinxed it but I've definitely gotten my money out of it.

Yeah we have cracked a few (440's) in the past. Was thinking a mild build not a max build. Just something to keep us in the game incase something was to happen to the main motor. I guess I could sell the 493 rotating and get one for a low deck block. I have a spare set of 440-1 heads I could use. Then everything should be the same as far as exhaust port location. Just kicking around Ideas at this point.

Not necessarily true. Later 440's have thicker webbing than earlier versions. Combine that with a really light rotating assembly, low rpm and keeping an engine out of detonation and you can get well above that.

We're at a little over 800 crank on spray and have been creeping up for a while. Nothing more than arp studs in the bottom end.

In the end, though, you are correct in that the 400 is the better option.

I don't know if the numbers I have are accurate, but the numbers I was given is that a RB is 3/4" wider at the exhaust flange. And of course raised somewhat. (A trig major could verify that.) Looking at the pictures of your engine and chassis tubes, it looks like an RB would hit your chassis tubes. And I couldn't stand to mess up those pretty headers. I agree with Cab, a 400 is supposed to be better. I would stick with a low block. The grass isn't always greener. Just my opinion.

This is key, and it's detonating long before you can hear it.

Kevin

Oh they will definitely work. Especially in a heavy car. Just not optimal for anything with gear and higher rpm.

Completely agree.