Think I broke my starter last night at the track. Have not pulled it apart yet. Its 15:1 compression. What would you use? This one I believe was a Mopar Performance from 2001.

I use a rebuilt Tilton SS which last I checked wasn't available. People have claimed the OEM starters are great even for the racier applications, not that that helps you with a part number. Since I was told long ago, I always wire the cranking seperate from the ign switch. Which I can offer is protection for the replacement, in the event this is applicable.

Seen one of these at their display booth and it looks like a good one. https://www.manciniracing.com/marastadbino.html


Gus

Thanks for the replies.

My problem is inadequate engagement. Looking at solutions including machining the starter to get more engagement. Teeth are toast on this one.

you may have room for a factory mini starter for a 360/5.9 magnum in a pickup, dakota, or ramcharger.
if so, they are cheap.
i just picked a new one up at the last canfield, ohio swap meet for $25.00. i couldn't let it sit there for that price.
it will reside on the shelf to be used when the OE starter on my charger gives up the ghost.

Looks similar to the one I used but at half the cost. Would have liked to try this one .

I put a steel mid-plate in mine years ago and milled the sitting face of the starter housing on my bridgeport. I didn't even disassemble the starter. If you need more enguagement your on the right track.

I'm looking at going back to a Denso that was in it. It was turning the motor just fine and come to find out it was not engaging on the main bendix teeth at all. Was just on the tapered part of the teeth. No idea how it ever worked. And basically you can't get full teeth engagement per design. I am now leaning toward .290" engagement which has the recommended 1/8" clearance between the flywheel and starter teeth.

Also learning a lot about the Denso Mopar mini starters. For example the 1988 Diplomat appears to be a 1.4kw and around 3.5:1 gear reduction (like my old one that I had on the shelf from my 12:1 motor). My 14:1 (now 15:1) motor has a 1991 - 1995 truck starter that also appears to be 1.4kw but has 4.4:1 reduction. That is what I believe I am going back with. I found a new exact model as the one I failed on ebay for a good price. Will buy more from DB Electric for spares.

Will post pics once I modify the starter to fit.

Not going to cut the midplate. No longer like that idea.

if you look at the surface and how it sits you don't need to do the whole surface either.

And I don't think I had to remove anything from the pilot nose. Been a while.

Isn't one of the Denso's a 2.0kw?

Correct. I have a good plan. The nose will be very close. But easily addressed.

How much did you take off? I need to take 0.325” off so will need to weld also.

I don’t know about Denso 2kw, but folks like Powermaster do make them that big but might not be in the mini starter configuration.

Mr. Gasket makes a 1.6kw that looks just like a Denso but don’t know if it’s a Denso or not. At $207 each decided to buy a bunch from DB Electric at $99 each instead. I could not find an actual Denso at 1.6kw.

Mancini told me that this one was not rated to be used in my motor.

i believe i saw that somewhere, but i can't remember where. [ain't that the way it always goes ? ]
at the time i discovered that, i tried to find out what it was used on, and how much gear reduction it had, but for some reason, couldn't find the answers.

As I recall I took .125.My mid plate is steel and and an 1/8 inch also. I took what the mid plate was.

Why so much (.325)?

0.325" will give me the targeted 1/8" clearance between the flywheel and starter gear. When I put the tranny in last time I pushed the converter back 0.130" to get proper oil pump engagement. So the 0.130 plus 0.090 for the midplate accounts for 0.220 of the 0.325". No idea on the rest of the 0.105".

Don't know if the factory mini sets as deep as the old large starters. Almost all the Big Blocks I've done with the newer style mini required a 3/16" aluminum shim s between the trans and the block. Don't forget the 3/16" washer on the ear of the drivers side below the starter. I just paint the front atrans case. Then lay it on thin cardboard when wet. Makes a perfect template. Same factory mini on mine for 12 years, 1100 passes. It starts with full
35 degrees timing ignition hot.
Doug

Doug - Can you please explain the 3/16" washer? Not sure I know what that is.

Doug - Can you please explain the 3/16" washer? Not sure I know what that is. [/quote]
The starter doesn't set on the spacer. It still bolts directly to the trans. That way the starter moves rearward engaging the converter deeper. At the drivers side below the starter, the bolt that connects the trans to the ear of the block needs to be shimmed the same thickness as your overall trans shim.
Doug