Thank you guys for your answers and time in doing so.

CMcAllister you somewhat answered my question but also highlighted my question. How can I "Subtract the thickness of the brake hats used" if I don't know what brakes I can use? Strange didn't answer me on what the offset is when I asked, and yes I was specific about saying which Mopar end I wanted. Without that information I can't filter the Willwood kits (first thing it asks is the offset), without filtering the brake kits I can't get down to a specific rotor/hat, so I don't have that measurement which I need to get "down" to the axle flange-to-flange width? Sort of a chicken and egg situation; that's why I was hoping somebody would say something like you did about the 2.50" offset. So I basically have to get that answer out of Strange.

I'm guessing maybe they have SO many people inquiring that are "bench racing" that they aren't as detailed until you are truly ready to order . These rears are just such a chunk of $$$ I, like anybody else, want it to be dead on.

As suggested, I'll just have to mock it up - I'll probably make up a dummy rear out of some like 3"-4" PVC pipe, mount my wheel/tires and cycle it through the suspension travel and then take those measurements and maybe then they'll discuss housing ends and brake kits.

Why would you use the 3.15" bearing housing end? Better bearing? More room for something? Or?

Really appreciate these tidbits from folks experiences or just general knowledge.

Here is the rearend I put under my Duster. Got the whole assembly from Cass at Doctor Diff. It is a Strange 9 inch with Torino ends, Baer brakes, aluminum center section and 1350 u joint.

one question, why are the hard line to flex line brackets attached to the rear tubes with hose clamps instead of being tacked to the housing ?

when converting to 5/8" axle studs, are there "sleeves" [for lack of a better word] that fit into the wheel holes that are drilled for the common [?] 11/16" shank style nuts ?
also, if drilling wheel holes larger to fit the 5/8" studs, how much clearance should one allow in the hole size for the studs ?
finally, i have seen "conversion" studs that are 5/8" on the wheel side of the axle, while being a 1/2-20 thread size for screwing into the axle that has the common 1/2-20 threads. i would think this would be asking for trouble, as the stud is still attached to the axle with the 1/2" thread size.
all comments welcome.

5/8 studs (bolts actually) are available with sleeves that function to lock the bolt and bring the diameter to 11/16. These are a PIA, IMO.




A proper kit is a machined stud sized for the wheel thickness with lock nuts, lug nuts and spacers as the shank will extend through the wheel.





Wheels are 11/16" You may have to hone or clean up the holes some if the wheels have never been used with the big studs. NO drill bits and aggressive die grinding. It needs to be a bit of a snug fit initially. They will loosen up some with use.