Ok, This is not my truck .BUT Mines been making this exact same noise.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/GAnGM_mlVwg


Been making this exact noise for almost 3500 miles , or so give or take
Started about halfway between AZ and KY headed east back in April. Noise would come and go to some degree
I thought was a flex plate , So had that replaced by a shop I trust in KY ,
Once back together they called and said noise was gone, even though they didnt see any cracks in the plate,
Jusrt a small amount of out of roundness in 2 plate to crank bolt holes. Yet all the bolts were tight.
To me it looks like a rust stain from crank bolt to outer edge like its been loose . SO I had them install an new genuine Mopar flexplate and blue locktight on the bolts , retorqued to oem specs ( see attached pic )
Noise was gone for a few weeks / couple hundred miles. so thought was fixed.

Took a few qweeks but it slowly came back Drove it to the Nats with trailer behind it, Noise was there going up. But not a sound on the drive back to northern Ky
So, I changed the oil / filter right after - no change . no signs of anything in the oil
Next day noise was there , so it would come and go , get above 2000 rpm and sounds like noise fades / goes away .

Well, after driving it back across country from Ky to AZ noise is back / still there .


Today I had some time to dive into this once and for all
So,
Today I pulled the torque conv loose and pushed it back so its not spinning- no change in noise.
sprayed some WD40 up around crank seal area - no change
took starter off and ckd for wear witness marks - none found
removed engine serp belt - no change

Ive googled it a few times and come up with numerous ideas fix its etc etc

Is this possible to be a cam roller ?

spinning cam bearing ? - spun bearing in the lower end ? deep down I have serious doubts its this as I feel it would have gotten A LOT worst by now . It does NOT knock or tick in any way except for an exhaust leak pass side only when cold . But this aint that noise

What leads me to think lifter is this thread

https://www.ramforumz.com/threads/chirping-noise-behind-the-engine.292750/

Thoughts on parts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375349401293?var=644323280370

Or im interested in hearing recommendations.
If this is it, and I have a strong feeling it is .

Im not interested in deleting the MDS either

Oh boy! I feel for ya Bill!

My water pump on my 18 made some chirping noises at 18k miles. It was intermittent but got worse when it warmed up. Wasn't leaking or anything...

On a side note my 12 5.7 durango had a casting issue with one of the cylinder heads and started pushing oil in the coolant. I figured since I had to pull the heads to figure out which one was bad I'd throw a cam in it. One of the lifters was starting to go and eat the cam. I had done oil changes on it regularly since it was new. Maybe a lifter? Just figured I'd let you know since they are both 12s.

Thanks , Ive eliminated the water pump and all accessories by removing the serp belt. noise is still there
Took all the flexplate bolts out and pushed torque conv back and can see its not turning when engine is running, no change -
I hate to admit it out loud ,,,,,Its in the motor.

And based on the videos Ive seen so, 90% chance its a failed lifter

Im looking for parts now.

Believe me Mark.
Im almost sick to my stomach thinking about this, I am NOT looking forward to it

Ugh well good luck! I was able to grab everything from a hookup I had at the dealer. I put the 392 cam/springs in it per HotRodDave's advice. Without a tune it did pick up some steam!

Car to elaborate on these parts ? such as application ?
does it retain the MDS system ?

edit, found it using a 2014 ram 2500 with a 6.4[b][/b]

I used one of the E bay kits on a 5.7 for a friend. It had 175 K miles on the clock and was just going to sell it after the repair. It ran fine but the lifters were a little noisy. Couldn't hear them inside the vehicle. He didn't like the noise. But he didn't want to pay for factory parts either. Long story short he didn't sell it. 20,000 miles later it broke the timing chain. I didn't fix it the 2nd time so can't say what caused the failure. He had it repaired again and still owns it. I wouldn't use that stuf again. People tell you one thing. Then they do another. Then complain.
Doug

Thanks.

That's exactly the feedback I'm wanting.
I really don't want to be doing this again. Ever

Also.

Everything I'm reading so far. Is to delete the mds system
And remove the solenoid altogether . As it keeps all the lifters better lubricated.

I'm am looking at going
With a 6.4 cam though for a lillte more umph while towing.
Which I only do a couple times a year...so is it worth that upgrade?
Still doing research.
As it's not coming apart for maybe another week or so

I used the 392 car cam. I'm not sure if the truck cam would be better. If I were doing it again... yeah delete the mds but I think you will need a tune. The good thing about the 2012 is you don't need to unlock the computer. I know MMX and Brian Tooley make great cams. I had a great experience here before for parts https://www.eastcoastmoparts.com/

IF you do a MDS delete use Johnson Lifters, there are some REALLY good articles on their lifters solving the Hemi Tick
Hemi Tick

weird part is my truck has never really had a tick so to speak.
Just the cold start exhaust leak on pass side ( that I believe to be broken manifold stud that I'll fix at same time while its apart)

Right now I cant find anyone local that can do the MDS delete software change. That means I have a to buy a programmer and thats another $430 on top of everything else

This is getting expensive.

thoughts on this kit as example

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164461437446?var=464069293268

looking at the stage 3 cam upgrade , but not sure about the comp cams quality

edit . talked to the sales rep. Not recommended I go with a non stock non mds cam

So this kit is off the list