Just had tires changed out on 2015 Challenger, now having problem with the sensors in wheels. Been reading on them and it seams battery only last 9-10 years. Looking into buying some so what do I have to buy for car? Mopar SRT specific or just run of the mill (cheaper)? I planing on installing all 4 in a section of pvc pipe, sealing the ends then pressurizing to 35 psi, throw in the trunk, program into pcm

7 to 10 years typically on the batteries.

We have had no problems with the Ebag or Amazon ones. $20 or so usually (though not always) gets a set of 4 delivered. Depending on the particular application, some come ready to install and the vehicle picks them up. Then, sometimes there is an additional step or two.

With the ready access you are talking about, just buy the cheapest ones. Even IF they didn't last as long as OEs, they are cheap enough to not matter.

For my 2012 caravan, my buddy who ran a tire store told me to but cheap ones at walmart. Around $25 for the whole set. So fat so good. They were preprogrammed.

I kinda like knowing when my tire is low on air.

Need to know mhz rating and it helps to know the OEM part number for cross reference. Here's what works for my '21 Challenger, and they're available w/ steel stem like mine came with in addition to rubber version shown below.

How will I find a part number?
Thanks to all replys above.

Google "oem tpms part number <your_model_year> dodge challenger <your_model_type>" and see what comes back

Application is provided by the vendor in most cases.

www.amazon.com/JESBEN-Pressure-Chrysler-Challenger-56029398AB/dp/B07QMQTWYR

www.ebay.com/itm/333622425841

Thanks Dave but Mine are metal stems

A search on Amazon will show metal stem valves also.

OK

These are the ones that I bought the last time: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRQV2R7M

Ive had many cars since 1966 I know how to check the air in my tires.

I’ll order them today.

"I planing on installing all 4 in a section of pvc pipe, sealing the ends then pressurizing to 35 psi, throw in the trunk, program into pcm"

Prefere the metal bolt in type, will install better in the tube with nut and if I change my idea I can always install in rims

You do know that the rims are the same so the stems interchange. And the sensors fit both stems, too.

Just trying to offer as much info on this as may be relevant.

That’s cool

So after multiple tries on Ebay with 3 year warranty sensors, I found most of the sellers are the same despite state and name changes. Chinese knock offs. Twice they cancelled my order saying sensor did not work when they tested them and refunded my money. Despite having multiple listing available. Then purchase a set of CDWTP. They could not be activated via 3 different programs. So sent back for refund. Most of them are knock offs, may have same ID, and who knows how long they will last.

In the end Tire discount matched a Rock Auto price of $31 ea, but they come with 6yr/72 mile warranty. I wasted a lot of time trying on the internet.

The orig Mopar that came out have far more registration data ink stamped on the sensor, then these knock offs.

I recommend going with a reputable boxed set and forgetting Ebay versions.

I would get them from a reputable online mopar dealer only.

I agree with buying Mopar ones from reputable dealer. I've lost confidence in aftermarket and while some haven't had problem with aftermarket you just never know. My 2010 Charger's lasted about 7 years. I replaced with Mopar and after driving about 1/4 mile they synced and light went off.

Back again with new issue so I need input. The original sensors pressure came back up on dash display. So I hooked up the Snap-On box and their numbers for each one were shown, reinstalled those numbers but check tire light won’t go off. Then I went to codes and erased that light. After a few minutes of driving the light pops back on with the message to have them serviced. Each time I start car that message shows back up. I know each one is registering because they vary with the tire temp, all not the same either. My thoughts are they’re registering in the pcm why not the light?
Any ideas besides going to dealer for the $175 hookup?