Hi
After carefully considering options and based on past experiences, I decided to install green bearings in my Cuda's 8 3/4.
I'll probably be swapping pumpkins often, and don't want to remove the spacer blocks from each.
Does anyone know how much I need to shave off the ends of the axels?
Thanks

I've swap to green axle bearing on many A body 8 3/4 and never had any issues with either type of those green bearings, same thing in stock Dana 60 in B and E bodies
Stick them in and make sure you have some end play , at least .015 or more

hi

if you cut the axel off you may be reducing engaugement of the posi splines !

if you install the correct green bearings with the snap ring on the od you will not have any in / out axel play but you must remove inner spacer .


i just replaced green style bearings on a rear that did not have the od snap rings , the axels had app 1/2 in in and out movement and started to ware the axel housing !

not good !

What brand "green" bearing are you buying that don't have the outer snap ring, travel limiting O rings?
I've never had to remove anything from any of the rear ends, 8 3/4 or Dana 60 that I converted to the green axles bearings

What he's concerned with is the axles hitting the buttons in the center of the sure-grip and not letting the axles seat all the way in at the outer end flange.

Most people simply remove the buttons, but he doesn't want to do that.

Doing a trial fit of the axles will show if they're going all the way in.

With the green bearings I don't think that there is any in and out play, pretty sure they simply seat.....

Any play felt would likely mean a loose bearing.

IIRC, not removing the center blocks leads to preload sideways on the bearings when you tighten down the axle retainer/backing plates.

If you're dead set on not removing the inner buttons, fit the axles and measure how far they are from seating. Trim axles accordingly.

I know it's not the answer the OP wanted, but when you're trying to do something the hard way.........

I just looked on Dr. Diff's site and here are the installation instructions:

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Remove old bearings
Drop the 5 hole retaining plate over the axle shaft
Grease the seal on the new bearings
Press the bearing tight against the axle flange with the seal facing the axle flange.
Press the lock-ring tight against the bearing.

Note: Install the gray foam gasket between the brake backing plate and 5 hole retaining plate.

I’m thinking the bearing race is in the same spot as the green bearing so adjust the axels up to the cross pin the same way as the regular bearing. That way it’s not moving in or out. Doesn’t matter where the bearing rides in housing as long as it’s in there enough.

Why do they call them GREEN ?

That was the name of the factory in Cleveland Ohio
They had a patent on them back then.

The green bearings do not use an adjuster therefore you cannot adjust them the same way as the regular bearings.

OEM bearings are taper, Greens are ball bearings. Taper bearings can handle side loads much better than ball bearings, you do not want to side load the Greens, therefore either remove the buttons or run OEM taper style bearings.

Or have the greens fail prematurely.

All that I know, but you can use the adjusters to put the axels in same position. Those bearings-axels will have side loads o matter how they’re held in. Personally I’ll use the tapered factory bearing for any street car.

Yes it can! To hold the axel bearing from MOVING IF it has no snap ring and no flange to bolt it to the end of housand. Extra safety factor. I’ve seen some early ones where the flange came off the bearing allowing it to move. I’m sure the new ones are made better to not have that problem. One bearing set I have is from the mid 70s, other than welding the retainer to the bearing I could use the adjuster and pin in the carrier. A good chance they’ll sit on shelf forever at this point.

You do not use adjuster's on a Green Bearing installation. If you cobble on an adjuster, why even use Green Bearings in the first place. They are used to do away with having to adjust axle play.

If you have snap-ring style Green wheel bearings, stock axles, stock brakes and a stock housing, you can leave the center thrust block intact.

Thanks for setting it straight, Cass.

Straight? I just checked MY green bearings, the flange is off and they WILL work with adjusters and non adjuster flanges. Imagine that. Never say never.

I'm confused. Is the concern that the axles will contact the thrust buttons in a Power-Lock differential and prematurely wear out the Green bearings? Is the recommendation to remove the thrust buttons? What do you do with an open differential? Is the recommendation being made to shorten the axles by the thickness of the thrust button head?

That's exactly what the original poster wanted to know.

He doesn't want to remove the thrust spacers/buttons for whatever reason.

He wants to know exactly how much to remove from the inner end of the axle.

He also doesn't want the axles contacting the thrust spacers so it won't cause the axle bearings to wear out from having a side load that they weren't intended to have.

IMO he's probably overthinking it all....