So winters here and what a perfect time to spend in the garage or where ever removing weight from our cars or unless your past that point then you`re probable doing something in the name of lower et`s. For all of us who`d like to see real word lightning programs and the weight lost and the real cost, let`s hear em. Like; Glass compered to lexan or removing metal as I am and the gains et wise or glass doors, deck lid etc. and can these pieces stand up on the street or sitting in the sun?

u ever race that nova?

Never happened but if it did, I would of lost as that thing went 9.20`s-30`s I believe.

Thumper.
Here's just one of a host of things I plan for the down season.

You have probably seen my Aluminum exhaust tread on here a few weeks back, well it is almost finished. I've have bought 45-90 degree mandrel bent and straight tubing to fabricate the exact turns and twist to come up with a really nice X tube exhaust system from the header collectors on back based on my old stainless system. I'm using aluminum mufflers based on the Dynomax ultra flo straight-thru design of which I am going to buy from a cat in Canada that makes some pretty awesome stuff. I just don't have the time to make 'em myself, so it would be more cost effective to go through his talents for the mufflers alone. They may be pricey to some, but his art is well deserved. Muffs can be had from anywhere between 200-300 dollars each. crazy! yes, lighter car breaking less, H$ll yeah.
Just to give an idea of the madness method, in the year 2000 my original steel system with X pipe and mufflers dumping out just before the rear end weighed in the neighborhood of 65 pounds complete.
I then in 2004 fabricated a 304 wafer thin aircraft stainless steel system using tubes mandrel bent and straight supplied by Burns stainless Co. while using the steel Dynomax ultra flos and that system narrowed down to 38 pounds.
Now this new aluminum system with aluminum mufflers as stated will bring her down to an invinsible 16 pounds complete dumping just before the rear end. The trick will be if they melt or not going down the quarter.LOL.
Seriously, I've done my research and I believe that it will survive the way I am designing it from the collectors back where the temps are much cooler than up by the heads. You have to use the right thick walled tubes, the right welding rods, the right muffler packing material and most importantly, the right hangers.
Vibration is its worst enemy.

For the price of a sheet of Lexan and a piece of 3/4 Moly tube Saved over 100lbs. No regulators, glass windshield -84lbs, glass hood -42lbs,(scoop +15lbs ya I no it's a tank but it looks good) Tube steering shaft and strut rods,-10lbs. K-frame trim -18lbs, glass hood -42lbs,(scoop +15lbs ya I no it's a tank but it looks good), Carbon fiber bumper brackets -22lbs, home made seats and tracks -45lbs, hood hinges, latch, and support -15lbs. Heavy stuff I kept. Steel bumpers 22/24lbs, old American 200S,15lbs ea.front/19lbs ea. rear, fire system +19lbs, 2nd battery +45lbs, Big radiator and dual fans +17lbs over the light stuff. Kept stuff to go rounds (extra battery,big rad,dual fans),Saftey (fire system and a few extra cage bars), and what I thought looked good (chrome bumpers,old wheels, scoop,glass windshield,stock steering wheel).
Doug

Years ago, 77, I used aluminum flex tubing after about 2 ft. of steel pipe coming off the exhaust manifolds back on my 69 charger. They melted after a 30 minute ride down the highway, after a few bursts of power, racing a 318 duster.

If your coming directly off the collectors, its going to hot. Probably hot enough to melt your system too, unless your using some higher grade aluminum with a higer melting point.

There`s weight in the ex. area for sure but not sure how it will hold up on the street..........Good luck with that........

60 bucks a day of some good jenny crank and you will be running 90 mph now that is weight loss hey dom you no me i could not let that one by :

T-6061.
Aluminum starts to melt at 1250F degrees. At the head surface where the headers meet the head it is usually 13-1400 F degrees. At the collectors it should be in the 900-700 degree park.
lets see how it goes or cooks LOL.

coming off the exhaust manifolds may be different than headers when it comes to heat. Headers will get rid of heat faster than iron manifolds if that is what you were using at the time. Aluminum flex tubing is not 6061 and the wall thickness probably thinner as well.

Thumper, do you know what your weight is now?

Dragweek extrauddinair larry larson runs an aluminum exhaust system. Im sure you will be fine.

Get the drill out and get to it. It's cheep and easy just don't go nuts.
Here's a bracket I worked on today. It's stuff like this that's the reason my junk is taking forever to come together. But if you can make some chips it's going to be lighter
Before


After

This is the bracket for my boost controller. It is the little things that add up.

i lost 25# of undercoating, misc brackets, holes in the doors and regulators, thinking of removing the rear regulators and securing the original glass somehow, I will not go lexan cuz i like the streetcar look, even went and got some aluminum bolts for the fenders and etc, if you dont need it remove it, ounces add up to pounds

aluminum exhaust