I can, BTDT, years ago had one launch into the next work bay fortunately nothing was in it's path. That is when I learned to leave the nut on as not only would it have prevented the launch, it would have also prevented the mushrooming of the axle They can be an SOB to get off. other times not.

i have also heard that loosening the nut a turn or so and driving the car around L & R turns will sometimes break them loose. never tried it though

It's amazing what you can loosen with a fire wrench and a garden hose. Of course, having the correct puller helps a lot.

I come from the land of Studebakers. That pretty much assured I'd get some experience with those tapered keyed axles.

I bet I could break the the whole dam end of the axle off, flange welds and all with a sledge. Those backing plate/ axle flange bolts would probably go first though. In reality that's all that has to go then the drum,axle, brakes, and backing plate all go.
I have removed tapered shafts on many tractors/machinery of much older vintage than that but not that particular joint.

To the op... impact the nut off give it a whack to back of the backing plate or two with a sledge assuming you have an impact for the nut and a 5 or 8 pound sledge. I'm not talking a hand hammer here. Give it a shot, let us know.

Don't doubt you "probably" can. I know I couldn't, call me a wimp if you want.
But I have a torch. I can cut the drum, pull the shoes and remove the 4 flange nuts a lot faster and with a lot less effort to accomplish the same goal. I've actually done it my way, so I know for sure that can be done.

No doubt the torch is the best way, it will probably let go with enough heat. but a sledge is quicker than that. I wouldn't beat on it all day but a couple whacks why not.

loosening the nut and driving around in tight figure eights does work ! i have done it a few times. it also helps to jam on the brakes.
this also works great when you have an alloy wheel seize to the axle shaft due to galvanic corrosion. just loosen the lugnuts a couple of turns and drive in figure eights, jamming on the brakes as well.
when you get the wheel off, make sure to clean the hub and wheel register good, then apply a dab of anti-seize to the wheel and axle to prevent this from happening in the future.

For the record, we didn't have any intension of trying to save the one axle shaft & drum. We were intending on saving the rest of the rear end. The goal on that rear end was to replace the brake shoes, brake springs, and the wheel cylinders. The other side came off without issues, we fought this side for about 15 minutes. We knew an axle shaft and rear brake drum were available. Cutting the drum was the fastest and easiest method we could find to solve our problem. We replaced both the axle shaft and the drum.

There was no concern about if we could apply enough heat heat to make it let go. We cut the drum into a center piece still attached to the axle (the cut was just outside of the axle flange), and an outer piece that the brake shoes run against. Then it was just a matter of getting the outer part of the drum off the shoes so we could remove the shoes. The one we ere dealing with the outer part of the drum was simply pried off with a couple of large screw drivers.

The Op just wants the center section of the rear end. Cut the drums just outside of the axle flange, remove the outer part of the drum (only the brake shoes are holding it, if its a real pain, cut the top and bottom of the outer drum and pull off both 1/2s). With the outer drum removed, access to the brake shoes is easy. Remove the brake shoes to gain access to the nuts that are holding the bearing flange onto the rear end housing (an end wrench is probably required), and pull the axles as you would a normal 8 3/4. If a torch is present, that is a 15 minute job per side.

I haven't had chance yet to try yet. Buddy has torch. And will try cutting the crap out of it

What bolt pattern?
I'm guessing 5 on 4-1/2 but I've heard rumors that they made some 5 on 5&1/2 at one time

5 on 5 1/2 were used on a 73 W-100...

Front and rear...

Dodge used both depending on year and 2wd 4wd

The early Imperials may have had a bigger wheel bolt pattern also

Imps were 5" x 5"...

The 5.5" is the same as Jeep and Ford...

The 5" was the same as Chevy truck and van and some older large Ford cars...

Center registers vary across all of them and not everything interchanges due to their diameters...

Most all aftermarket stuff will...

OK the most important question of the day......

Did you get it off yet, and how?

Ok sorry so long to get back to this. My friends have been very busy. So. I tried a zip wheel and cut drum off
So what I would like to know before doing other end......
If I remove the 5 nuts that bolt the axel to the housing. The axel will come right out like normal 8 3/4 axel??
Again I do not plan on reusing any of this other then the housing and pig
Thanks guys

Removing the five inner axle bearing retainer nuts should allow the axle with the drum hub attach to come out , not easily probably

I cut the drum off except where the wheel studs are
Doing so was in hopes that I would not need a puller. And that I could remove the 5 nuts and the axel would slide out???

I had one of those early 8 3/4 diffs in an Australian vc valiant powered by a 440. this was thirty eight years ago.

What a nightmare of a diff. I could tell you guys some funny stories.

Remove the 5 retaining nuts and the axle should come out with some hammer hitting to the back of the flange/hub .

remove the axle retaining nuts on the housing end, cut the brake line to the wheel cylinder, smack the backing plate with a BFH or sledge, and the axle and brake assembly should tap right out.