I have a 4.5" crank going in this motor, and I think that I've read that I need to check clearance between the crank throws and camshaft lobes. Is anyone familiar with doing this? Which throws/lobes will typically be a problem area?

Mine clear fine with Molnar 7.100" steel rods. Cleared with 426 profiled 7.150" BME aluminum rods also. Cam is 285 / 296, 4.84" / 4.70" lobes.
Doug

Thanks for that info, I may not have a problem then. Still will check it.

It depends on what size your rod journals are and which type rods your going to use, stock Mopar or BB Chevy sizes. Also which material your using, steel or aluminum rods
I'm finishing up a 572 C.I.KB aluminum wedge motor and I had to clearance the bottom of the sleeves to clear the rod bolts heads on the Scat 7.100 Mopar steel H beam type rods on the KB old top fuel crank with Mopar stock rod journal size I had to use those type rods due to using an older KB top fuel fully counterweighted balance crank
I was trying to save some money and ended up spending way more on his build than I would have had to with all new parts design to work with each other
I use .030 minimum clearances on steel rod motors shifted under 8000 RPM and .060+ on aluminum rod motors, way better to have ,005 to much clearances than .0005 to little

Big Mopar engines usually don't encounter cam to rod clearance issues, unlike bow tie engines do. BB Mopars are essentially "raised cam" engines. I built a 622 ci with no cam to rod problems (Koleneo block, 4.600" bore, 4.625" stroke, 2.200" Bill Miller alum rods and a huge solid roller). There were clearance issues, but rod to cam was not one of them. However, you should always check it.

Brian

On my 605: I have .060 clearance on 4 cam lobes and rods. One of the reasons I run a gear drive.

All big blocks, chevy ford and mopar are 5.150-5.152 (same)

Never even gave it a thought at 4.5, at 4.75 with aluminum rods we were machining.

4.15" won't be any issue, but as Cab said the I have a 4.15" I offset ground to 4.300" and went to a 2.200 journal and I actually would up with MORE Clearance. The issue on BB Mopars is seldom up in the cam tunnel, it' just usually needs Scallops in the Bottom of the bores and usually relieving the area around the Oil pick-up. Usually you only get up in the cam tunnel with a 4.500" or greater stroke combined with a fat shoulder rod. Although I might suspect even a 4.375" combined with an aluminum Rod could cause some issues. Steel H beam rods have cap screws, it's usually the rod bolt heads that cause issues.

I Built a 427" 4.04" bore x 4.17" stroke 351 Windsor for my Cobra Replica about 28 years ago. It used a 4.00 Stroke offset ground to use 340 Mopar Rods, and I had to relieve all 8 of the rod bolt heads on the top side to clear the Cam tunnel....plus I reground the cam for a reduced base circle.... I Also used a Gear drive as well. This was before Steel H beams were a dime a dozen. That one took patience!!

But 28 years later it's still running strong!

If in doubt mock it up and wrap a medium duty Nylon Zip-tie around the cam lobes, if they clear you have .060" minimum.

I have never had Crank to Cam clearance issues (4.5 stroke in a Hemi Block) B, RB and HEMI Blocks all share the same crank to cam distance of 5.152". You need to check cam lobe to Rod (Aluminum) especially on 3 - 5 - 7.. It is not uncommon to "Nic" the rod to correct this issue. With one set of rods in my KB motor I had clearance, replaced then with a different brand (and HP level) of rods and they hit every where, Swapped them into BAE raised cam block and all is good. The KB block got an equivalent HP rated (to the originals) rod and they hit the cam...So the rods need a little massaging. Typically steel rods don't have this issue.

I like this .learned something new today. Not the way I've been checking it but seems way better Thanks

I enjoyed seeing that idea too. And being a retired electrician, I've got a pretty good stockpile of zip ties

My crank is at 2.2" 4.75" stroke with Eagle 7.1" rods.