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Mopar SS spring question #3223731
03/30/24 03:08 PM
03/30/24 03:08 PM
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Scranton, PA
Montclaire Offline OP
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Montclaire  Offline OP
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Scranton, PA
Hello, I have a 74 Barracuda with an 8-3/4 and Mopar SS springs. The car has what looks like the Mopar front hangers with two bolt locations, and the springs are in the lower hole. I am getting a driveline vibration above 3,000 rpm/50-55 mph (the car has 3.91s). Checked the pinion angle and found it to be one degree positive.

I ordered a pair of four degree wedges to correct the pinion angle. The wedges are 3/8” thick at the midpoint, and I am assuming engagement of the center pin is going to be an issue. Does anyone know the length of the Mopar center pins? I’d like to pick up a new set in advance so I don’t make this into a two day project.

I have already done a precursory search and can’t find a length listed anywhere. I believe they are 5/16”. I’ve seen guys suggest using allen head bolts, although I have a few spring shops local to me so I probably won’t need to go that route. Would grade 8 allen bolts be sufficient if I do?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Montclaire; 03/30/24 03:13 PM.
Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: Montclaire] #3223763
03/30/24 05:29 PM
03/30/24 05:29 PM
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A727Tflite Offline
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Originally Posted by Montclaire
Hello, I have a 74 Barracuda with an 8-3/4 and Mopar SS springs. The car has what looks like the Mopar front hangers with two bolt locations, and the springs are in the lower hole. I am getting a driveline vibration above 3,000 rpm/50-55 mph (the car has 3.91s). Checked the pinion angle and found it to be one degree positive.

I ordered a pair of four degree wedges to correct the pinion angle. The wedges are 3/8” thick at the midpoint, and I am assuming engagement of the center pin is going to be an issue. Does anyone know the length of the Mopar center pins? I’d like to pick up a new set in advance so I don’t make this into a two day project.

I have already done a precursory search and can’t find a length listed anywhere. I believe they are 5/16”. I’ve seen guys suggest using allen head bolts, although I have a few spring shops local to me so I probably won’t need to go that route. Would grade 8 allen bolts be sufficient if I do?

Thanks in advance.


Once your u-bolts are tight the pin does nothing more than position the axle.

Grade 8 bolts are more than adequate. Find something where the head is as close to the perch hole diameter as possible and either push the axle forward or back against the pin before tightening the u bolts.

Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: Montclaire] #3223830
03/30/24 09:31 PM
03/30/24 09:31 PM
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s. e. pa.
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calrobb2000 Offline
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hi

i use a 1/2 " grade 5 bolt

put in the lathe and turn head to 1/2" same as shank and make top part 1" long then turn down to 5/16" and thread the bolt to length i need .

if you or a friend has a lathe easy peasy !

Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: A727Tflite] #3223841
03/30/24 09:55 PM
03/30/24 09:55 PM
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by A727Tflite
[

Once your u-bolts are tight the pin does nothing more than position the axle.

Grade 8 bolts are more than adequate. Find something where the head is as close to the perch hole diameter as possible and either push the axle forward or back against the pin before tightening the u bolts.


I'm going to politely disagree with the bolded part frown If one has enough motor and traction that pin is going to do more than locate the axle IMO. I'd suggest longer pins with heads of the correct diameter. If the pin portion is too short have spacers made to raise the pins a bit.

One can measure the clamped spring thickness, add what's needed for the nut and lock washer (more is better wink ) and visit your local spring shop. if they don't have longer pins, space them up.

Just an FYI: placing two good sized c-clamps on opposing sides of the pin makes changing the pin quite easy twocents beer

Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: TJP] #3223850
03/30/24 10:17 PM
03/30/24 10:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,982
Scranton, PA
Montclaire Offline OP
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Montclaire  Offline OP
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Scranton, PA
Yep, I know the C-clamp trick. I need a roughly 2-3/4” long bolt. Corvettes actually used something pretty similar – 2-7/8” long with a 1/2” x 3/8” smooth head. If I can’t find something locally that’s probably what I’ll order. There are also several universal 5/16” ones that must be cut to fit as they are very long, but they are also listed as only Grade 2.

The wedges I bought have a 9/16” center hole, which is an odd size. I’ll probably use a 9/16” nylon bushing with the center drilled out for a 1/2” steel spacer to raise the center pin. That should locate the wedges until I can get the u-bolts cinched down.

Thanks

Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: TJP] #3223864
03/30/24 10:53 PM
03/30/24 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by A727Tflite
[

Once your u-bolts are tight the pin does nothing more than position the axle.

Grade 8 bolts are more than adequate. Find something where the head is as close to the perch hole diameter as possible and either push the axle forward or back against the pin before tightening the u bolts.


I'm going to politely disagree with the bolded part frown If one has enough motor and traction that pin is going to do more than locate the axle IMO. I'd suggest longer pins with heads of the correct diameter. If the pin portion is too short have spacers made to raise the pins a bit.

One can measure the clamped spring thickness, add what's needed for the nut and lock washer (more is better wink ) and visit your local spring shop. if they don't have longer pins, space them up.

Just an FYI: placing two good sized c-clamps on opposing sides of the pin makes changing the pin quite easy twocents beer


My statement wasn’t an opinion.

I have seen quite a few rear suspensions in heavy, fast SS cars back in the day with oversized holes in the shock plates. Never been an issue. The u-bolt takes all the separation load. The alignment pin is in shear, which is minimal as long as the u-bolts remain tight. You will never break the pin.

Re: Mopar SS spring question [Re: A727Tflite] #3224138
03/31/24 10:56 PM
03/31/24 10:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,355
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by A727Tflite
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by A727Tflite
[

Once your u-bolts are tight the pin does nothing more than position the axle.

Grade 8 bolts are more than adequate. Find something where the head is as close to the perch hole diameter as possible and either push the axle forward or back against the pin before tightening the u bolts.


I'm going to politely disagree with the bolded part frown If one has enough motor and traction that pin is going to do more than locate the axle IMO. I'd suggest longer pins with heads of the correct diameter. If the pin portion is too short have spacers made to raise the pins a bit.

One can measure the clamped spring thickness, add what's needed for the nut and lock washer (more is better wink ) and visit your local spring shop. if they don't have longer pins, space them up.

Just an FYI: placing two good sized c-clamps on opposing sides of the pin makes changing the pin quite easy twocents beer


My statement wasn’t an opinion.

I have seen quite a few rear suspensions in heavy, fast SS cars back in the day with oversized holes in the shock plates. Never been an issue. The u-bolt takes all the separation load. The alignment pin is in shear, which is minimal as long as the u-bolts remain tight. You will never break the pin.


I didn't say it was an opinion, just that I disagreed with it and still do. I've seen many things done that people thought were OK and later found out different. That is a STATEMENT!! My previous comment was MY OPINION beer







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