Does anyone know where to get the tool to adjust a Sparton horn? Can't find anything on the internet and the FSM is of no help.

????????? https://www.brattons.com/PRO-PACK-SPARTON-HORN-REBUILD-KIT/productinfo/19777/

I think these Sparton horn parts are for much older horns than what you might be looking for but maybe this shop knows where to find what you are looking for and need?

Also this https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/subgrouping.htm?cat=41718

Model and Year for Sparton horn?

Have no idea what model. The version used on the '69 B-bodies.

I found numerous sites like the ones you found that sells parts for the Sparton ah-ooga horn, but that is not the case here.

Watching as I've looked for this myself in the past

I've only ever worked on Prestolites, but it looks like possibly a Torx E9?
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...beep-horn-restoration-with-photos.54143/

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/so...-female-torx-socket-unobtainium.1087460/
If one actually exists, that is.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chrome-Spline-Socket-3-8-Drive-9mm/646008568

Just played with a sparton, 68 ish, and torx, hex, 8 point, 12 point sockets wouldn't fit. I counted seven nubs, not six, not eight.
Ended up using needle nose vice grips, sorta worked.

I just found this thread and have a similar or the same question - does the tiny knob on the horn body do anything useful if the horn stops working?

My '65 Sparton Lo horn just stopped working. I apply 12V battery power to it and it just 'clicks' a little.. it seems to draw a high amount of amps..

Does that mean the horn is toast? .. I figure it's not rebuildable, it's all riveted.

.. or does the little adjuster "knob" do anything to help bring the horn back to working condition? See photo..

Thanks,
- Art

Yes. That knob puts tension on a piece of metal that vibrates and makes the sound.you can adjust it it with a pair of pliers. Sometimes a sharp whack of the horn ona hard surface can free things up and het it vibrating (honking) again. Sometimes rust will come out of the horn if you rotate it.

Agree sometimes just turning the adjuster back & forth cleans the contact enough to get the horn working again. If that doesn't work, following these instructions might be worth a try before looking for a replacement.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/566967/prestolite-horn-repair-101.html

I've been able to bring back quite a few non-working Prestolite horns that way. Spartons I believe are nearly identical. Soaking everything in Evaporust worked well. I suppose sometimes the coils burn out and then there's not much that can be done but many times it's just a matter of internal corrosion causing the problem.

Thanks,
Yes, some rust came out of it after I whacked it. Thanks for that link, good stuff.

OK - When I test the inoperative horn out of the car, with 12V car-battery power directly to the terminal, and then ground the body to the Negative battery terminal, I get a large spark, and no sound. It's seems short circuited but the fuse never blew. I'll check for Ohms and continuity across the terminal to horn-body.. That could be a sign that the coil is fried - short circuited.. right? An operating horn draws quite a few amps doesn't it? I don't know how or if the amp draw relates to Ohms.. I'll ask my High School student..

After that I'll whack it some more and try that adjuster knob, then drill out the rivets and open it up cuz that won't make it any worse..
- Art

Update:

I whacked the horn a few more times, and I got that tiny knob thing to turn, so I carefully worked it back-n-forth a few minutes but put it back in its original position. Put power to the horn and it worked! ... intermittently.. along with plenty of sparks whenever I grounded it to the Negative terminal.

So, I'll drill out the flared posts and open it up for cleaning.

More tomorrow..
- Art

I Have also had success filling the opening with carb / brake clean and rotating the horn x number of turns until the cleaner gets all the way inside. Shake it a bit, leave it sit for a bit and then reverse the process to empty the cleaner. Many times I've been rewarded with a substantial amount of sand or other blasting media. Do allow adequate time for the solvents to evaporate as they are combustible. Flushing with air helps as well.

That sparking is normal.

Thank you! I was concerned it might be shorted out.

It would be a fun project to make some......... Not all that complicated.

Well then, step up to the plate. I'll be your first customer!

Have you ever tried an allen socket?

Anyone else need one while I'm at it? I will make a few more in the morning............

It's a seven point hex of some sort. So no, a conventional hex, Torx, or spline won't work.