I've been fighting this issue for several years now. I'm at a loss. 2011 Ram 1500, 5.7, 4 x 4. Front brake calipers start sticking, (not releasing), after a long drive. Brakes drag to a point that the front wheels are to hot to touch. Lots of brake dust. I've replaced the calipers and pads. I've checked the hoses. Brake fluid seems to flow freely. Master is not over filled.
I'm sure that I'm not the only one that has had this problem. Suggestions please.

1) Replace both front brake hoses. They deteriorate on the inside, I have no idea how that would show up on any kind of inspection short of removing them to look inside. At that point why would you put 13 year old hoses back on?

2) If its been an issue since the truck was new, I would shorten the adjustable rod between the master and the booster by about 1/4 turn. Its possible the adjustment does not provide enough clearance and the under hood heat is expanding things just enough the brakes are always dragging when everything gets hot. When you adjust it by shortening the rod length, you are effectively giving the brake pedal more free travel before it actuates the brakes. Understand, a little adjustment goes a long way, the adjusting bolt is a fine thread bolt, but a 1/4 turn is a lot of movement. You may also have to adjust the brake light switch after so the brake lights don't stay on, but usually the rod adjustment doesn't effect the brake light switch adjustment.

3) It is possible the brake light switch is out of adjustment and may not be applying the pedal to fully return to its designed position and is still holding pressure on the brake pedal. This one is a long reach, but I have seen it before.

Thanks for this.
I have ordered new hoses. After changing calipers and pads rotors, etc., process of elimination says hoses are the next step. I didn’t know the brake push rod was adjustable!! This will be my next step after replacing the hoses.
Thanks again

So again, that adjustable rod is between the brake booster and the master cylinder, you need to unbolt the master (usually no need to disconnect the lines), then pull the master forward about 2". you will see the rod from the booster that actually pushes the piston in the master cylinder. The adjustment is at the cylinder end of the rod.

The old ones (96 era) had a lock nut you loosened then turned the end into the shaft. The older rods were removable, I don't know if the newer ones are removable or not. The rod doesn't have to be removed to make the adjustment, but if it can be slid out, it makes it a bit easier. Again, a 1/4 turn is a lot of adjustment on that rod length, it doesn't seem like it would make any difference, but it does.

Silly question but are you lubing the slide area of the caliper?

As already stated, replace the brake hoses.

Although it was rare, we actually had bad ones in the Ram Assembly Plant.

Brake hoses become a one way check valve when they deteriorate internally.

Installed both front hoses two days ago. I’ve driven a bit. So far so good.

Congrats. Hope it stays that way.

I found on my Ram the front hoses have a metal clamp / bracket on the hoses

And with time the clamp rusts and squeezes the front hose closed


Had it happen on mine on both sides

It's a Mopar problem because they insist on putting phenolic pistons in the calipers which don't stay round over time and stick. Had the same issue on a Jeep awhile back. Put rebuilt calipers with metal pistons on and never had another problem.

Oh God, not that again. IIRC, they used phenolic pistons in the early '70's single piston disc brake calipers. Same result. Fix was to replace all the phenolic pistons with steel pistons. Apparently some lessons have to be learned over.

I just replaced both my calipers on my 2010 Ram R/T. They work fantastic now!

Mine has a plastic bracket to hold the brake sensor wire.
So far so good. Bin driving it for three days now and no hang ups. 🙏👍

Well it's back. After driving for a couple of weeks with no issues, the front brakes are dragging again. Could this be normal?? It sure is hurting my gas mileage. Both calipers and brake hoses have been replaced along with the brake pads. What about the ABS system? Could this be causing my problem?? Very strange that after all these years that this would develop. I bought the truck new and didn't have any issues until a couple years ago. I can't think of anything that I have done to make this happen. I have been a professional mechanic most of my adult life since my discharge from the service, so I'm not a "weekend warrior", so to speak. Maybe a truck mechanic could chime in?

That sucks!

The next time its dragging, maybe pop loose a bleeder screw and see if you get a big squirt, or just a little flow like you would expect when gravity bleeding. A big squirt would indicate there is still pressure on the system, and then at least you have a direction to chase.
If there is no big squirt, then the drag must be caused by the brake pads or the caliper.

I'm really starting to wonder what they are making the brake pads and shoe linings out of these days, and if that can be some of the brake issues that seem to be appearing in recent years.

I have all new brake shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, backing plates, and drums on my 49 truck (96 Dakota stuff). I get about 3,000 miles out of new brake shoes before I start getting a howling from them as the truck is about to stop. This it the 3rd set of shoes, the drums have been turned (yea, I had new drums turned) and those drums have been replaced. The shoes have come from different parts stores. With each replacement, I get about 3,000 miles before the noise starts again. After that, the more you drive, the worse it sounds. Reminds me of the howl some of the old big truck brakes used to make.

My issue appears to be weather related. This set of shoes does not make the noise every day, but maybe a time or two a couple times throughout the day. Hot and humid weather seems to make it worse (rarely happened through the winter). I have even pulled the master cylinder off and shortened the adjusting bolt for the booster, thinking maybe the extra under hood heat was causing the problem. That helped a little, for a while. I might pull the master and shorten the rod another 1/4 turn.

Here is something strange. I opened the master cylinder cap before taking the truck for a ride yesterday. It ran perfectly!!! No brake dragging at all. No heat build up, no nothing! I’m confused to say the least. What about drilling a small vent hole in the master cylinder cap?? I will check the brake pedal push rod adjustment.

Okay, first off, no adjustment on my brake pedal. Second, I removed the cap on my master cylinder. I does have a small channel to vent. It must have been blocked somehow. I did drill a small hole in the cap to insure there was a vent. Test ride went good. I hope this cures my issue. 🙏

That brake rod adjuster is between the booster and the master cylinder. That may be something the manufacturers eliminated as a cost cutting feature on the newer vehicles, I don't have anything newer then a 04 and I have not taken the master cylinder off the booster on that ride.

You may want to keep an eye on the drilled hole to be sure it doesn't start spitting out brake fluid into the engine compartment. The last I heard, brake fluid is still effective at removing paint from everything.

I completely understand the “paint Removal” with brake fluid. Bin there done that 😂😂😂 The hole I drilled is about 1/64”. Not big at all, but I will be monitoring for a while. The channel in the master cylinder cap is much larger than the hole I drilled.