Wondering what the preferred dolly is. I prefer not to fabricate my own and I've seen the ones that bolt on to the k frame mounting points and the front spring perch location in the rear. I fear this style would be a little tippy as they are so close together. I was considering this one. What do you guys think? Thanks.

https://autotwirler.com/product/elite-body-cart/

Looks OK. Only concern would be firmly securing where frame rails rest on uprights.

I know what you mean. Hit a bump and the whole car slides.

I build both styles. Which you use depends on what you’ doing. The bolt on units are fine. The front end will be light with all the sheet metal removed but so what!

Just love their definition of "We use the same clamps we used on our AutoTwirler PRO so there is absolutely zero wobble on the posts".
It's a bolt that screws into the post!!!!
Seems the Plus-Body-Cart has means to bolt it onto frame rails it seems.

I've been contemplating building a dolly. What would be wrong with using pins that go into the reference holes in the unibody frame rails? If you had a stop so the pin only went in 1 1/2" or so, wouldn't that both support the car and prevent it from sliding?

I made my own but it bolts to the front spring mount and the the 4 bolts for the K frame(3 pieces). It's not that hard to make, just get the correct caster wheels.

What's your plan for the car ?? If its a full restoration then don't waste your time or money on the dolly or dolly stands, go with a rotisserie.

A rotisserie will allow you easy access to all areas of the car. However, if the car needs a lot of sheet metal or frame work then you can't do that on a rotisserie.

The dolly "ok" at best. It will give you access BUT the rails connecting the four corners will be in the way when you're working under the car. If they're down low you have to crawl over them. If they're up high they're in your way working on the bottom.

The four point posts and casters are a good way to go as long as the mounting points are solid. As I previously mentioned, the front end will be light once the sheet metal is removed but unless you don't climb in the trunk its a non-issue. And its an issue easily resolved with a jackstand under the back.

Either of these approaches would be a better option.

Decided on these. We'll see what happens. Thanks everyone for the input. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMP-MPC-0440

That should do the job just fine. Not a bad price for what you are getting.

Agree, and I have those same ones on my car right now, you do at first wonder if it might be prone to tipping but I've had no issues, trailered it back and forth for paint no problem at all. I think for the money they're hard to beat, some competitors are offering the same thing for a few hundred bucks more.

I have a set of bolt on ones for sale. I used them on my Duster project and they worked fine. A '71 B body is a bit bigger and heavier so you might want some reinforcements.