exhaust is basically in, charcoal canister and air tank are mounted, including a heat shield. Brake lines and full hydro hoses are on deck.









...biggest air tank I could reasonably fit was this aluminum 4-gallon unit -

Nice work!
Gonna be a shame to cover it all up

naw it's cool

Brake lines are in place, and now working on the full hydro steering hoses n stuff, and I was able to re-purpose the heat shield I had in the Dakota - looks like it'll work great -

...soooo when I made the y-pipe I neglected to remember to include the O2 sensor bung...so I had the pleasure of drilling a big hole through the beautiful plumbing to weld in the bung, which worked fine - meh no biggie -


Gas tank plumbing. Since it hadn't yet broken I took the opportunity to reinforced the vent port - took a piece of 3/16 brake line, sanded it just a skosh thinner, lubed it up with JB Wend, stuck it in, and used a dremel wheel to cut it flush -




Wanted to use the OE "5/16" fitting that goes onto that port and eliminated the excess 'baggage' from it, used JB-weld seal it off, and now it is a typical 5/16 fitting - this is the tank vent to the charcoal canister -

Next, in order to figure out the fuel filler tube I first had to modify the filler neck mount. The OE plastic tabs were brittle and broken, so I am using screws to retain it to the body...but naturally there wasn't enough meat behind it so I fabbed an 'extension' from 16g steel to give the screws more purchase, making the filler neck mount much more secure -






...and with that located in place I can finish the filler neck...and I'll begin the work to secure the Poison Spyder corner armor in place...which is what drove all the filler neck work to begin with... -

Welded a flange to the filler neck so that instead of simply 'floating' in a grommet it now screws firmly in place. Also, removed the tiny vent tube and welded in a bung for a 1/2 NPT x 5/8" hose for the tank vent. It aught to filler up as fast as the hose can pump it out now (y)

Got the filler hose and vent hose figured out - used two hoses from Oriellys to connect the 1" and 1"/1.25" tubes (#FNH111 and 118) - works awesome, and WAY cheaper than what the dealer wants for those two hoses.








Added a small tab to support the other end - now it bolts up nice n tight to the body and won't rub against the bump stop and shock tower -

...so I want to start running wires...but before I can do that I need a place for the battery to sit...and for that I need something for the battery to sit on. Being a right-hand-drive setup originally I had to alter things in the engine bay anyway, and I did find the correct left-hand-drive inner fenders, but when I started to ponder where the steering reservoir and battery and all the under hood stuff would go...well the OE inner fenders just weren't gonna cut it...SO...out with the cardboard, 14g steel sheet, and jigsaw, and I now have fresh inner fenders, and everything should 'fit' way more nicer'er

Still a lot of finish work, but for now it's great for mockup. The d-side was the first to be cut/demo which is why it is less 'complete' than the p-side - it'll ultimately look just like the p-side. Both inner fenders are also going to be part of the lower extensions, which I'll complete later on. Forward progress

before -






...aaaaand after - nice clean slate -
before cutting and breaking -








my group 27 battery is almost exactly the same size as our 50-cal ammo can/1st aid kit - gonna fit perfect -


...going with an X2 Power dual purpose AGM battery

so I have a nutzert tool and a bunch of nutzerts...but they don't have a ton of 'capture' on the back side of a panel, and found these 'HD' rivet nuts to secure the tops of the inner fenders - these mushroom out in back a lot more than nutzerts and 'capture' much more of the backside of a panel, which in my case I think is a plus; had to modify the tool to get further into these than the nutzerts but seems to work fine -


they appear to be a lot more hooah than the smaller style nutzerts (I'll use these on the rear quarter panels for the corner armor too) -








Lots of 'fine tuning' going on with the inner fenders, including the brake flex lines from the master cylinder to the junction block on the frame.  While I was working on that I copied an idea I used helping a friend work on his M37 project and made a small bracket to attach the pro valve - now everything is nice and tidy and easy to get to -




One minor correction to the rear flex hose and the brake systems will be ready to bolt in for good.