Building a new 540 short block using a Callies Block. Motor will be straight drag motor. I won't need to go monster HP, just a bracket racer, but in gathering parts for the build looking for best route to go for these parts. CAM lift probably won't go over .700. Looking for good stuff that will last is all.
- Timing Chain and Gears
- Solid Roller Lifters

If you are buying all new parts then I'd strongly recommend a belt drive. If you need to buy timing set, front cover, cam button, etc. then the extra cost of a belt drive isn't too steep. A belt drive seals up the front of the engine and it makes cam adjustments really simple.

BAM lifters are pretty hard to beat these days, without going down the Jesel road. The Isky stuff is good quality also.

I have C/P pistons and GRP rods in my 572. As Andy F said, I have a belt drive also.

Andy, does a belt drive add HP, or durability? Not trying to be a smart butt. I just would really like to know. My local engine builder is pushing me to use a belt drive on our next engine. I'm just a low life braket racer. But if it makes the engine life longer I'd definitely consider it.

I know a belt has it upsides. As long as changed often enough and the tune is dialed in it should be okay. However, it always seems like that $100.00 belt that takes out a $20,000-$30,000 engine.

Andy, I'll look into the drive belt as well, but currently set up already with your billet cover with inspection plate to the cam, and button. Would water pump housing affect this? I'd like to stick with the housing and pump I have as well.

Is a belt less or more likely to loosen or break than a chain? I have seen what a catastrophic chain failure can do. "Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly."

If you already have the billet cover and cam button and everything fits under your water pump then go with the best timing chain you can buy. Hughes Engines has the ProGear setup which should be good. Summit has a Cloyes billet and a Rollmaster set. I'd think either of those should be fine. You have to be really careful with timing chain fitment on stock block Mopar engines since sometimes you need one that is slightly shorter and not all brands carry minus chains.

I always put a belt drive on a race engine. It just solves a bunch of problems and seals up leaks and makes adjustment easy and stuff like that. I probably wouldn't bother on a 500 hp bracket engine, but anything over 700 hp would get a belt drive if I build it.

Just had a 850 hp all aluminum 540 inch Indy motor come into the shop to get a refresh. Engine had a cheap timing chain in it that was cracked in multiple locations. This is a $30,000 engine with a $99 timing set. Guy is lucky that it didn't break since it could've taken out most of his investment.

if one couldn't find a good minus chain set, and didn't want to go with a belt, what about a gear drive ?
also, if the chain and sprockets look like new on a run engine [that you didn't assemble], how can you tell if the chain was too long when it was assembled, or if it is now stretched, as the chain has slop now ?
or just replace the chain set with new ?
hate to try multiple chain sets only to find out the block has been align bored/honed in the past, thus needing a special length chain.

Gear drives with the fixed single gear like the Milodon ones are great, but costly vs a chain. Once you pay for a gear drive you can transfer it to another engine later if you wanted to.

The Milodons do make some noise, but it's not loud like the old Pete Jackson floating gear drives. If you have a healthy exhaust sound it will mostly cover up what noise the Milodon style produces.

I think if I was going to use a chain I would get a Rollmaster or a Pro Gear set. You can find complaints about any type of chain set, but those seem to come up as good most of the time.

Do Jesel BB Mopar belt drive belts have living issues with 300 bs. seat pressure with 800 Lbs. over the nose?
If so any recommendations on how many runs before replacing them or how loose on the belt or any other help on that

I messed around with a couple on BBC 's They where over those numbers. And never an issue other than the cost. Replaced one idler(felt rough) once and one belt just because.

Is the Callies block Cast iron, or Aluminum?

The one Indy is doing for me is Iron.

No