https://www.qccoatings.com/ https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100054537425857 In Michigan QC is who we use...

If I end up with new TTIs, I may try the WD40 thing. I don't have any confidence in it. But may try it in the 'what do you have to lose' vein.

No offense meant but I'm guessing it's being ignored as it sounds like pass the buck BS, to me anyway. ..............

TTI should just make their headers out of stainless steel as an option for those that want it.

QC Coatings here as well. My previous set of pipes (Hooker 1-5/8" SB tubes) got their flat black ceramic coat...nearly 10 yrs later when they came off (just last summer), while the coating did eventually peel off in certain spots - it was blistering away so to speak - there was no actual rust formed.

The ride in question is a summer only deal though, stored in a semi-heated garage over the winter.

Having said that, my new W2 TTIs that I brought back to them got coated in the same flat black were finished in the Chrome instead, which is clearly NOT what I had requested, having specifically talked about this very thing. So yeah, imagine my surprise, and a bit of annoyance as well, when I went to pick them up and found them like that.

Bill did look up our original email exchanges, agreed it was a screwup by the shop, no pushback, he re-did the pipes. So other than the delay and wasted time driving out there (for me they are as far to the East as possible LOL - opposite end of where I'm coming from) things did end up getting fixed.

The usettled feeling is that I can only hope he properly stripped the previously applied chrome finish so that I do not run into any future issues with my flat black ceramic coat.

Hey Dave:

Do you have pics of your headers and the failure spots? Also, what are the specifics on your engine, i.e. HP, naturally aspirated / SC, NOS, etc? In a perfect world with POLISHED METALLIC CERAMICS and a perfectly tuned (timing and fuel) engine that was NOT exposed to any engine break-in procedure or Dyno tuning, you will see slight dulling approx 8-12 inches from the head. Anything more severe or further out in the primaries is indicative of a lean condition. Conversely, dulling and coating failure from mid primary out to collector is indicative of a RICH condition. The after-burn in the headers over heats the ceramic coating which opens its pores are allows it to begin rusting. Or in more severe scenarios the polished ceramic will become sacrificial and begin to delaminate from the header substrate.

I've re-coated numerous TTI headers over the years as well as others in similar applications and unfortunately their failure is usually the result of excessive temps for the Polished Ceramic. Most people don't realize its true temperature limitations because its a go-to coating for many header manufactures and most lie about its abilities. That said, Polished Ceramics at their base are nearly all IDENTICAL in chemical formulation. That rating is 1000F to 1100F METAL TEMP. That can be extrapolated to approx 1100F to 1300F EGT. Companies claiming anything beyond this are clueless or lying. Its physics. The aluminum material in the coating that makes it shine oxidizes at 1000F to 1100F PERIOD.....

That said, the only solution to the normal 1-3 year life cycle of Polished Ceramic is to use a High Temp Ceramics which are rated at near 2000F. High Temp Ceramics are not offered in a polished finish but they are available in upwards of a dozen color options. In that we do a lot of higher HP cars or newer vehicles with superchargers, turbos, etc we do probably 95% High Temp Ceramics these days.

Well, after a lot of time on the phone the decision has kinda made itself:

I have never really been happy with the steering box that Firm Feel did for me when I put this engine in. The typical dead spot in the middle is annoying as hell. I actually sent it back and it came back basically the same. I have wanted to try the Borgeson box for some time now, but the many issues reported here (thanks Moparts!) has kept me from it. Besides, there is no way that box is coming out with the engine in place. But it seems that Bergman has got a good combo now.

Since I am pulling the engine to address some other things, the Cuda is getting a Bergman kit. But my current TTis won't fit the new box apparently. TTi has changed the driver side tubes to accommodate the Borgeson box. So............looks like a new set of TTis.

I have thought about getting the TTis and sending them off to be coated elsewhere, but every step takes weeks which stacks up to it being well into February before I would have the finished headers back. I am not in a hurry, but I really don't want the car spread out all over the shop that long. It all takes up a lot of space.

I suspect that in a few years that I will be right back where I am now with the condition of the headers. With or without WD40. But to be honest, I am not sure how much longer I will be doing this hobby. This is most certainly the last time I am pulling this engine/tranny. This kind of work is just getting to be too hard on my hands and back.

I really appreciate all the responses. Thanks!

Try and wipe them down with gloved hands a sponge or soft rag soaked with Evaporust for a day or two.