Getting ready to go through my 727 this winter and give it a checkup. So far it is hanging in there but had some bluing on the steels that last time I had it apart.

I've used the Raybestos clutches in the past and the Alto Reds with Kolene steels. Is there something better out there? I thought I recalled another brand someone here on the board was using with success?

This is a street/strip unit that sees North of 850 hp.

Which steels shows bluing ? Rear clutch is always on when in forward, they should never blue or show slippage.

Fronts could blue for a few reasons.

The kolene steels seem to be the ones called for in race applications , though I've had good luck just using the uncoated ones in a diesel trans. There is a new ...to me ... clutch material that the diesel guys are using, GPZ by Raybestoes , I used to use the Borg Warner Hi Energy frictions , I don't know if they are still made , but the GPZ are going in trucks making 1500 plus HP , I'd be looking at these .

I'm going to be refreshing the trans I built for my Cummins Ram to put into my new to me 98 Ram and I plan on using the GPZ , I'll also use these in the 727 I'll probably be switch to next year in my Dart once it's back together .

https://www.raybestospowertrain.com/gpz

I honestly don't recall. It's been a good 3-4 years since I was in it. I know were doing a lot of 2nd gear launches back then...

You didn't mention your HP level or weight of the car. I have always used the Alto Reds with Kolene steels up to 800 HP and had no trouble. The blue clutches are slightly better for high HP levels.
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...els-raybestos-number-rcpbp-11-1962-1999/ I have used them a couple times and they held up good as well. At least that is my experience.

We use Alto red's/Kolene's with good success. I'm assuming you're seeing this condition in the the front clutch. How many frictions, 4 or 5 ? What line pressure? How do the reaction shaft support rings look? Steel or Teflon? If they are steel, are they worn on the sides? Aluminum or steel drum? I've talked to both Joel Rabe and Dave Smith. Neither get to exited about exotic friction materials. Once you get it right clutches and bands will go a long time. Mine has the same band since 2014. And only a few frictions swapped.
Doug

Four frictions, no idea on line pressure. It is a Turbo Action Cheetah FWD manual LBA valvebody installed out of the box. The support rings are steel and looked fine last time it was apart, we'll see what they look like this time. Steel drum.

I've never had clutches look like they had much wear, just looking for opinions on what is out there that may be better.

If the 48RE’s live at max GVW for hundreds of thousands of miles, some with repeated deep throttle 2-3 shifts - the production clutch material and steels must be good enough.

If the trans is built properly.

5 frictions would help. If it's a steel drum I'd use the Teflon rings. T/A valve body could use a pressure boost as well.
Doug

Thanks, Doug!

True, and honestly, I've ran the plain old Raybestos clutches in a car that got put through the wringer and never had an issue there, either.

Not a 727 but I run the Red Altos in my 904 with kolene steels. Car makes about 600hp in good air at 3550lbs. I put these clutches in the trans in 2019. They have seen several thousand street miles and 100 or so passes maybe. I tore it down this summer before drag week to change to steel planets and everything looked great so the only change I made was steel planets and Teflon sealing rings.

Thanks! Your usage is probably the most similar to mine.

I just pulled apart a 46re from a Durango and the rear clutch was SMOKED. Front clutch looked like new. All stock except for a TF-ODjr shift kit when the trans was refreshed about 55k ago. Daily driver Durango (my wife mostly drives) with a little bit of light towing (around 2000-3000 lb total trailer wt) maybe 3000 of those 55k. Very hit n miss, few miles here n there, flat ground. 360 magnum in front of the 46re.