Installing TransGo TF2 kit. Is there any advantage to not taking hole C in step 1 on page 1 right to .187?

Would smaller help reduce potential 2-3 shift overlap and eliminate the need to restrict the feed to the front clutch?

I always drill them out to 3/16" (if smaller) on the premise that it's easier to drop the VB and install an orifice restrictor in the case if needed than it is to pull the VB and disassemble it.

The overlap of the third clutch and the release of the 2nd band cannot be eliminated just made as short as possible. One thing is if you install a shift kit or a manual valve body, the ratio of the band apply lever should match your modification. I kind of fell into a fix for the overlap on my race car several years ago. Had a manual shift valve body and a 4.2 band apply lever. Trans always worked good and never let me down, but when I pulled it for maintenace about every three years the band was always a little dark. I installed one of the blow proof drums with the stainless-steel sleeve, and the next checkup you could still read the part numbers on the band. I guess the stainless was just enough slicker to let the band slip instead of getting hot on the overlap. Follow the band adjustment in the kit it is a little different than the stock. I used to be a member of the Gil Younger school for trans technicians, before he died. He would send us kits to try out before they were released to the public. It also included books and tips also not given in the kits.

any chance of getting a copy of those extra books and tips ?

Thanks guys.

I’m setting this up @ 12 springs in the front clutch, .073 clearance, 3.8 KD lever, solid band, early kick-down servo with 2 springs, and the TF2 set up to all of the advised “race” settings, with their supplied restrictor.

4 clutch forward drum. Valve body is a 73 valve body. TA 3500 stall converter.

Any feedback on if this is likely the right track or if I’m likely to have an imbalance causing too much overlap?

Thanks

i'm thinking i would tap the hole where the restrictor goes in the case to 1/8npt. the hole is already the correct size for the tap.
then get some female hex pipe plugs and drill several different size holes in them to get the results you want.
just make sure the holes are tapped deep enough to allow the plug to seat below the valve body sealing surface.

I did this mod to mine last week to replace the existing stamped restrictor plug w/ a threaded one drilled to the same .14" orifice.