What is everyone using for a windage tray on a small 340 block and a 4” crank? I’m using a stock pan as well. This is a street car. The stock one is not hitting that bad so I may be able to space it down and massage it a little.

I had a Milodon one and it rubbed when the Milodon deep sump pan was installed. I was turning the engine over by hand and heard a super faint metal on metal sound so I took the pan off and the sound went away. I had already trimmed material off the sides of it and it still rubbed despite it having what appeared to be plenty of clearance with the pan off.

I would put some clay on whatever one your using and then turn it by hand with the pan on and then pull the pan back off to check for any contact. The Milodon one was too wide for the pan and would get wedged up and distorted enough that it would touch the longer crank throws,

How about trying some hardened head bolt washers under the tray to gain clearances, one each to start with

I haven’t used a windage tray for close to 30 years. My question to you is does it trap oil in, or out. Hmmmmm

Both. If it’s made correctly.

My thought is that gravity draws the oil down into sump and tray keeps it there.

Windage tray on a street car is waste of time and money. What you want to address is oil control in the pan. Baffles and such to keep oil around the pick up.

I used to run the MP windage tray in my 360 build, and for that I think it did what it was meant to do. But that was with a factory oil pan that had some oil baffled welded in.

In my 408 stroker, which has the Milodon 30940 pan that's 8 quarts, I measured things up prior to the assembly, and given that that pan already has a pretty extensive baffle setup, I simply did NOT install the windage tray. I had two to chose from, the original MP or the Milodon one.

Attached is a pic with the dispstick showing the 8 quart "oil-line" (but reversed since the motor is flipped around on the engine stand). This btw is with the crank counterweights at their longest 'reach', meaning the full counterweight is showing.

How is it working out?

Well, the motor seems to be happy, I have good oil pressure, although at idle (800-850) I get down to about 15 PSI with my 10W30 oil grade. This is sufficient, although I would prefer another 5-10 PSI extra.

And what happens to that oil level when the oil is hot and thin as water and you step on the brakes? Or put your foot in it? Baffles and oil level don’t do anything for that.

Running 10-30 oil if there was an issue with that I would see it on my RacePak readout like I did on my Canton oil pan.

Uncovering the pickup isn’t the only thing to look at, although if you are uncovering the pickup you will be crapping out parts pretty quick.

When I get my garbage on the dyno I’m going to test it without a windage tray and crank scraper, with a windage tray and no scraper, a scraper and no windage tray and then with both the windage tray and the scraper.

I do know when I put it together the last time I picked up 8-10 psi oil pressure everywhere. That tells me the crank scraper is doing work. It also means if that is the case I can drop down to a standard volume pump and that saves some horsepower (maybe).

If you can make a stock one work then do that. You'll be money ahead since the aftermarket trays all cost money and many of them don't work very well.

Mine do, both the slosh baffle welded in the oil pan around the oil pickup and the front slosh baffle welded onto the top of the sump in the front of the stock SB oil pans I do make my own crank scrapers on all of my HiPo motors, BB, gen 2 Hemi and LA motors
I'm getting ready to build a mild E85 pump fuel turbocharged 360 with a small stoke increase and probably a hydraulic roller lifter cam and lifters with a Holley EFI system. I'm not shooting for the moon on this project, I want to drive it on the street only so I can learn about both EFI and turbo motors first hand I'll try to remember to take and post some pictures of crank scraper and the internal oil pan baffles I may end up buying a deeper sump larger capacity aftermarket oil pan, maybe not
I'm asking for help from above and hoping I don't hurt it learning. oil pan

It's well-documented since Smokey Yunick discovered it decades ago that the rotating assy pulls the oil in the pan around it like a rope at RPM.
Net effect being aeration, drag on the rotating assy, and less oil for the pickup.
There are a few ways to prevent or at least lessen that; deep pans, scrapers, trays of either louvered or screened design.
Likewise, correct baffling has been proven to work in all forms of racing.
For non-resto/stock-appearing stuff, I like the biggest pan I can run + a louvered or screened tray.

This is the nice Milodon I have in my 408 Stroker, 8qt sump

The factory 5.7 has a very nice pan IMO (Charger Police anyway not sure about trucks etc.)

Same pan as what I'm running, and that's the one with the pan side-flare at the bottom, which means the oil has a lot more room to slosh around there, and that should prevent a lot of that volume making it's way up top.

So for comparison's sake, here are a few pics of what the old 360 motor (stock stroke) with the MP windage tray looked like (using the same disptick I carried over to my 408 stroker, so the "scale" in relation to the rest of the block is the same).

Also included my little DIY factory pan baffle, which was a copy of something from one of the Mopar mags. I think it helped a tad...not sure if that ever translated to any HP gains though?

Its always been a cryin shame that MaMopar never had some kind of factory sump baffles in the SB oil pan... absolutely asking and inviting for oil pump cavitation whenever hard g-forces (acceleration, deceleration, cornering) would come along. I welded in sump baffles into the bottom of my factory oil pan over 40 years ago when I began autocrossing (and some drag racing, road course racing, etc)... it was the single best modification I'd ever made to save the engine and the internal bearings from self destruction. And... recently, I've been running the Milodon road race oil pan... was a bit difficult to install within the factory k-frame (needing some minor cutting to fit the oil pan's widened sump), as well as fitting the Milodon windage tray (needing LOTS of massaging/radiusing to clear the H-beam rods from my 4" stroker)... but worth the time and expense. Also... the Milodon oil pump tube needed slight massaging (squeezing) to clear the point of contact at the windage tray... so that the pickup would not hold up the pan upon clamping it down.