So on my Ramcharger, I ended up with a double cardan joint on the rear shaft because of the steep angles. As far as I can see from google machine, is that the pinion should be at 0 angle to the shaft, pointing directly at the transfer case. I have done that, but then when setting pinion angle I see posts about setting the angle down a degree or two so that its at 0 angle while under power. Would you set at zero or set it down 1 degree or 2?

Also after this is done, it will be time to weld on the spring perches to the rear dana 70 axle. I made one piece perch/blocks to get rid of the loose factory block sitting on the stock spring perch. The blocks are machined out of solid steel. I have enough mig welder, 350 amps, to really burn these in, like the factory perches were. When I ground off the factory perch, the factory weld was plenty deep on the tube like easily a 1/4" dig into the tube. How hot should I go, and will I warp the tubes welding the blocks on?

i would set the angle at 1-2 degrees down, depending on how much spring wrap-up you have under hard acceleration.
then, you could fine tune it with wedges if it does things you don't like at speed or deceleration.
200 or 225 should easily burn the perches in. if you do this in small increments [1" at a time ?] jumping around after letting the first weld[s] cool, you shouldn't have any warpage problems.
if some are encountered, they are easily fixed, and there are several ways to do so.

I did all I could to get rid of axle wrap. I made the perches way longer than stock and geared it with 5:13's to turn the 37's.
I got rid of the factory block, and went with as much leaf spring as I could get, a full 6" lift spring instead of 4" plus block. I think I may just put a temporary goober on the front of the block and then drive it to see if it vibrates.
I've done some tube straightening with a torch and wet rag before but would like to eliminate any chance of warpage since I went through the trouble of building a jig to hold it true when I narrowed the axle.

The Ramcharger I once had, was similar to yours. Had the double cardon at the transfer case, down to the 1410 u-joint at the D70. I had the 6" springs, but no block. The D70 was set at 3° down, but I had changed my rear shackle to be in compression, not tension. That rotated the D70 to get that angle. I never was over 50mph with that truck, as it was more off-road than on-road, but never noticed driveline vibration. With your welded block and 5.13's your going to be twisting the diff, more than mine (4.56's with 42's). Loads of leverage there.
My current project will be 1° down, but I welded up a traction bar from an Off-road Design kit - hopefully no D70 rotation. Might be something to look into...