Had there been any problems cooling with one of the new aluminum water pump housings? Seems like I remember someone having trouble with these and flow problems. I’ve got a friend with a 499 cid BB and 440 source aluminum heads. It runs good but is right at 215. Now it is Texas in august and it’s well over 100 degrees outside.

You should tell what kind of combo he has , like fan, radiator and so forth.

I had a 512" RB in a Duster a while back, Indy top end, pretty stout cam - PO had aluminum radiator, electric fan in front, no shroud, mech fan.
Ran 200-210, would go up on a hot day in traffic.
I ditched the electric fan, added a shroud, and swapped in a smaller water pump pulley.
After that, 170-180 no matter what.
Radiator was a 26" in the 22" opening.
ATF cooler was separate from radiator.

Some years ago...
440Source sold an aluminum water pump housing for the mopar big block and its internal coolant passages were too small greatly raising the coolant temperature..
Later the tooling was revised...

Just my $0.02...

Yes, I also I think I read something on here many years ago about the 440 Source brand aluminum water pump housings being cast with internal holes smaller than the cast iron Chrysler ones so people were having trouble with those.

For someone who has not already purchased a water pump, or has one that is not doing the job the Edelbrock water pumps work great as they have long curved blades to move max. volume and little to no dead space. I've used the SB ones, and while they cost more than most of the others I think it's worth it for the more serious engines that do tend to create more heat.

My built 440 runs 12.5 domes etc on the street.I run an old MP aluminum water pump housing and pump.Runs 22 inch rad that was an OE 65 cbody with shroud.Has March underdrive pulleys and flex fan .That rad was damaged so i run a Champion 150 buck one from ebay.Been in 4 years.Never gets over 185 even when its 90s out.Seems many with electric fans etc have problems My kid ran the same setup in his 62 300 413 except he had the OE rad recored Never ran hot.Now his 360 built truck runs stock rad and the same setup.Also never gets hot.

this ? is for topside . was your radiator a 2 or 3 row core?

i've had cooling issues with 440 source water pump. went back to a stock type pump and temps dropped at least 15 degrees.

Burks - it was a Champion, don't recall for certain but think it was 2-row, 1" tube.

I've never had any cooling problems with any of my big blocks. The trick is to use proven combinations. Good radiator, shroud, clutch fan, belt driven pump with correct drive ratio, etc. Works every time.

He has a griffin alum radiator, with twin fans to cool it and a march serpentine belt system.

Totally agree with Andy...
OE Mopar cooling systems can work just fine, but to add 1 point.
Make sure to pressure flush the block to remove any old rust or crap inside the coolant passages..

Just my $0.02...

if one wants an electric fan, use an OEM setup.
they work much better than aftermarket ones, but make sure your electrical system is up to the task.