Anyone know of a good shop or trusted individual in CA that can shorten an 8.75" rear from E body width to A body width?

Why not just find an A body axle housing. They should be pretty common and that E body might have a value to someone else.

years ago I sent one in to Moser to be shortened/new perches. it was pretty cheap (at the time). they just wanted the seals/studs removed & it car wash cleaned. EDIT just checked & they want 170 to shorten the housing & not sure how much to add new perches.

Call Chris Alston Chassis works (888-388-0256) and ask them if they do it or who they have do theirs

These folks should be able to help you or give you a good recommendation, never heard anything but great things about them.

Phil Mandella Racing
10256 6th Street
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91760
Speed Shop: 909-483-2488
Race Shop: 909-941-7800

Where in California are you? I believe Fearless Gear here in Fresno can do that. From what I've heard it's really not difficult IF you have the alignment tool to get the ends square.

as one who has done this, you need two "pucks" that fit the end bearing bores, [roughly .003-.005 smaller than the bearing bores] as well as two pucks fitting a bare center section bearing caps, tightened to specs, installed into the housing you are narrowing.
the pucks need a center bore of 2.003-2.005 for a straight piece of 2" solid bar to pass through to act as a centering fixture. this bar needs to be about 12" longer than the overall length of the finished housing, so you have 6" or so sticking out past the bearing ends on each side.
bolt the center section into the housing. [after you have narrowed it to your liking]
slide the alignment bar through the housing so an equal amount is protruding from each end.
put the bearing end pucks into the bearing ends, then slide the ends/puck assembly onto the alignment bar. tack each end in place, [four places, 90 degrees apart, allowing each to cool, then do the opposite side tack, which [if done correctly] will still allow the alignment bar to turn freely in the puck bores. take your time, doing one end at a time. doing it this way will allow you use the center section pucks as datum, and if for some reason the housing gets distorted and the bar will not pas through the bearing puck, that end can be heated and quenched or put in a shop press to straighten that tube so the alignment bar will pass freely through the bearing end puck after final welding is done. rinse and repeat for the other side.
this is just a quick synopsis of the process, but gives an idea how this is done.
i realize not just anyone will be able to accomplish this in their home shop, due to not having a lathe and chunks of stock to make the required pucks, but just what i have done in the past. your mileage will vary.

A Body ones go for $750-$800 Bare right now. And sell fast.

or maybe call Dr. Diff for a complete assembly, the length of your choice ?
all done, just bolt in and go. i realize this is a chunk of change, but one can get some bucks into shortening a housing and buying axles as well.

Wonder what a bare E-Body is worth?

If your are interested I can shorten an 8 3/4 housing, I have, to ether of the two A-body widths. I have a nice fixture that allows me to make sure the ends are square to the chunks face. I also have a 1.5" bar with the pucks to make sure the housing is straight. I'm willing to ship. Reasonable prices. Pm Me thru moparts if interested.

your pictures describe exactly what i was trying to convey in my last post.
thank you sir !

IMHO, half to maybe 1/3. Most E-bodies had 8 3/4. Especially the ones that are still around.

Also some people put 68-70 8 3/4 in E-bodies as an inexpensive way for a shorter rear.

I just wanted to thank everyone for all the great replies, offers and suggestions.

I have an ebody 8.75" rear with a 489 case and 3.55 gears sitting around and if I don't use it for my 68 Dart, it's just going to take up space. I'm going to make some calls and see if it makes sense to shorten this one. As far as buying an a-body housing, like a few have mentioned, they're pricey and hard to come by.

Thanks again, I'm going to follow some of these leads.

On a side note what are the two A body widths? thank you. RR

So the two A-body widths are:
The small bolt 8 3/4 width and the late model A-body big bolt width.
So we know that the 1.75 wide small bolt brake backing plates wont work with a large bolt 8 3/4 axle. Because the small bolt and big bolt axles have different widths from the bearing to were the wheel bolts on. Using the big bolt axles widens the small bolt 8 3/4 width. Make'n it work with what I have, mentality.
The late model A-body have a different width, it is narrower than the small bolt 8 3/4, and allowing a 15x7 wheel to fit in a duster wheel well. This is the one I prefer because it has its advantages especially when shorting an housing.

8.75 a body BBP rears. Please do tell...

The 8.75 stopped production in 1972 SBP then swapped to the 8.25's, BBP, in 340 cars for 1973

52 5/8" flange to flange, all and every one was SBP, is the base measurement of every one I've ever had my hands on from 1967 to 1972 cars. With minor +/-

Yes, if you want an A body rear to have the same overall width (57.125) of the stocker ones, using BBP, the housing needs to be narrower to compensate for BBP increased brake stand off distance.

1972 andlater all had either the 8 1/4 or the smaller 7 1/4 rear eds in them, no SBP 8 3/4 in them after 1971
I have put 35 spine axles wih a 35 spline spool in a 8 3/4 housing with the SBP stock brakes and I had to have the outer edge of the axles chamfer to clear the 10.0 inch x 1 3/4 stock brake drums

If I source an 8.75 out of C, E, Truck or Van to have narrowed for a 64, using the large bolt pattern and 11" brakes, does the housing go to the 66-72 width [52.625] or a different length?

for whatever this is worth, my buddy has a 72 duster his wife drives.
it has a B-body rear in it, unmodified. the springs had enough "give" that the rear didn't need the spring perches moved.
it has the 10" brakes, but putting the 11" brakes on would not increase the width, as the backing plates go inward the little difference there is.
he is running a 15x7 wheel with a 4" back space and 225/70 tires, and has enough clearance he could go possibly one size bigger using an 8" wheel. there is lots of spring clearance, as well as to the 1/4 panel outer edge.
the car sits at stock height , but has a slight rake due to the front tires being smaller at 205/60, but on the same 15x7 wheels with the same 4" back space.
if it were my car, i would space the rear springs back 1/4-3/8", raise the car a touch back there, and i'm pretty sure a 275/60 on a 8" wheel with a 4-4 1/2" back space would clear easily.