What brand mini starters are you guys having good luck with? Working on a 512 for the street, and I usually just go to the local parts store and get a stock chrysler mini starter. They don't want to fire the engine when it gets warm, and I got a 1000 amp cranking battery. I think it is just crappy quality of the starters.

I’m still to this day running a starter i warrantied at work from my 95 ram 1500. It just needed a new set of starter contacts which are easy to replace…. just not a part available from Ma mopar so you got a new starter. I’ve often thought if I ran out of OE starters maybe I’d be tempted to get one from a recycler rather than a “reman” from the local house of cheap.

Junk yard starters are cheaper and generally better than the asian copies sold in the parts stores.

For some reason my Dart has been needing a starter every year , probably because the TTI headers are so close ,I got a Powermaster HiTorque starter from Summit , we will see how that holds up when my motor comes back from the shop

I have an OE Nippendenso on my 505 and have for the last 7 years. Works perfectly.

Use one from a Magnum Series Motor from a Durango or Dakota.

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SND0165-Starter-56027702AB/dp/B007XUHRII/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=K9H3MG67QRYY&keywords=dodge+dakota+R%2FT+5.9+magnum+starter&qid=1689089723&sprefix=dodge+dakota+r%2Ft+5.9+magnum+starter%2Caps%2C130&sr=1-2-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18630bbb-fcbb-42f8-9767-857e17e03685&vehicle=2000-40-299-295-29---7-4773-224-8-1---2&vehicleName=2000+Dodge+Dakota&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Clickable www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SND0165-Starter-56027702AB/dp/B007XUHRII/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?

if a guy has trouble starting hot with that starter, what size battery cables are you running, and what kind of battery terminal cable ends are you using ?
hopefully, not those cheapy "bolt-on" ends you get at wally world........

I’ve always used the factory nippondenso starters without issues. I added a trigger button on the contact solenoid for “wireless” starter bumping while adjusting clutch weights.

Never had an issue even @ 13.0:1 with a stock Mopar starter on the race car. Trunk-mounted battery.
My Hemi 4-speed car got a McRobb starter swap from its original direct-drive starter: huge improvement in spin-over speed.
One of my 383 RRs has a starter - installed by its previous owner - that looks original, but does NOT have the "Mopar sound".
The last time I had a starter problem on a street car, it was corroded battery terminals, but a weak/insufficient ground is also a typical problem.

Never had an issue with any car I have raced using a Dakota mini starter, locked out dizzy, 13+ compression, etc, etc.
Had my current car completely rewired about 4 years ago now. Since then it starts like it has a 16 volt battery.
Guy who did the work( retired electrical engineer, who now does race car wiring on the side) told me having good wire and clean grounds is way more important than you would even think it is.
I believe him!
Check every connection, ground, wire size you can if one of those little starters has any issue turning a car over. Very unlikely it’s the issue, from my experiences

Not all starters for Mopars are the same. I have a 1.2kw a 1.6 kw & a 2 kw. The 2kw really spins the motor over, but has no snout to locate it. The 1.6 will spin your big block over fast enough but the 1.2 is more of a small blick v6 type. Not a long life item on a big block

Mine has the same factory mini starter it's had for 10 years. I also had trouble starting hot. Locked timing at 35, 13-1 compression. The wiring (2.0 cable) was voltage drop checked. No issues. It had 2 optima 850cca batteries. The small alternator couldn't keep up with the fan and water pump load. The voltage wouldn't be at full charge (12.66 volts). Went to a a single 675cca 16volt battery. Everything else is exactly the same. Never had an issue since. You can have all the amperage in the world. Starter winding resistance goes up with heat. as stated if the full battery voltage isn't making it to the starter it'll cause issues. If the battery is down on voltage (12.00 volts is only 50% state of charge) it's not going to crank hot.
Doug

do 16v battery's charge correctly using a 12v alternator ?
how does the 16v battery affect other 12v accessories, such as lights, radio, heater motor, etc. or does one need to use a voltage reducer of some kind in the electrical system downstream from the starter branch ?

The only two changes made, #1 replacing the regulator with a 16 volt unit. #2 turning the fuel pressure down at the tank return regulator. It went from 32psi to 40psi at 17.5 volt charging rate. The front regulator couldn't deal with that much pressure. Now the pump is set at 30psi. The carb regulator is set at 5psi. All other components are fine. The lights are much brighter.
Doug

what 16v regulator did you use Doug ?
any changes to the factory wiring harness ?

The 2kw doesn't need a snout to locate it. It's engineered to work that way. It's the only thing that will work with a powerglide. Theres not enough room in the powerglide bellhousing for the snout.

Be careful of your wording on that. It’s the only one maybe that will work without a simple mod. A cut off wheel handles that mod in minutes. Lol 😂

Depends on what alternator you have. Mines a Denso mini. Just oredered a regulator up on line. No wiring changes.
Doug

Yes, but the others won't work at all.