It's been a while since I've did engine work so, pardon me for asking an amateur engine rebuild questions. I've got a 1979 Lil' Red Express I bought back several years ago. I managed to keep the original engine out of the truck. I pulled that engine in 2008 I believe. I pulled that engine and replaced with a "freshened" 5.9 Magnum from another member here because at the time it was cheaper to set this truck up this way. I pulled the heads off the original engine because when I bought the truck they were believed to need just guide seals. The machinist I used in another state found multiple cracks in them along with other issues with the heads. Installed the stock 5.9 Magnum engine (converted to 4bbl) and sold off a year or two after.

Anyways, over the years I have oiled the top of the engine and have turned it over here and there. Last year, I pulled the covers off original engine in storage and turned it over. I'll attach some pictures of it. What I'm wondering is if I could do minimal work to the engine to get it running again? When, I pulled the engine it still ran and had decent oil pressure. The biggest thing is the heads fouled the plugs and I guess I should mention it puffed blue smoke on start up but, went away after that. Oil pressure was around 75-85 psi cold and then dropped to 45-50 psi when warm.

My thought was to get another set of good used "596" castings, rering, rebearing, new timing chain, camshaft and lifters (if needed), timing chain, and oil pump and see if that works? The problem is the area I live doesn't have any good machine shops that I'm aware of that is close by and finding a good machinist or machine shop is hard these days. If I could do this work myself and learn then that's the route I'll go depending on how much I would be into the engine. I never pulled the oil pan or timing cover off the original engine. I'm not sure if I would be able to dingle hone the engine or not.

For my purposes, a stock engine would be fine for cruising and for the mileage I would drive yearly which probably be 2k miles or less. I'm just trying to weigh my options here. Here is some pictures of the engine. Still has what I believe is the factory camshaft as well. My apologies for the long post and amateur question(s).

Yep done all the time. Might not be best but it will work. You got a lot of work there better get on it.

So what is your location?

Going to depend on what appears to be rust at the top of the cylinders. If its pitted, time to bore

We have all done this very thing. Some have done it many times. Sometimes it works out okay and sometimes not. Simply because, the first time or two, we may not recognize issues that could cause us trouble down the road.

Make sure that the 'ring ridge' is not too big. It could damage your pistons when you remove them if it is too big. And you will need a way to knock the glaze off the cylinders so your replacement rings can seat.

If the valve guides and seals were your oil consumption issue, you may not need to pull the pistons. Were there issues that cause you to know that the pistons need to come out?

I disagree with the next to that last statement. You are going to have to pull the pistons to reseal the rings. I'd at least install new rings and hone the cylinder walls.

I would start with a rag soaked with AFT around the cylinders above the pistons to clean up the cylinder walls on the block. The ATF will remove most of the surface rust so you can get a better look.
You want make sure there are no pits in those cylinder walls.

Thank you all. This all helps me. I'm located in the greater Indianapolis area. So, here's the thing I'll add to this thread. With the truck, I'd figure I would attempt to hopefully be able to start to learn doing more engine stuff. The reason for my statement is because, it seems as time goes on it's less of thing that is done and I feel more comfortable knowing what/was and wasn't done or needed on my end. Anyways, thank you all again and I'll have to make sure the cylinder walls aren't pitted. Thank you again.

one can read all the theory and proper practice books one wants, but the real "learn'in" begins with just gettin' in there and doing it.
asking questions and accepting guidance will go a long way to a successful endevour.
i have "dived in over my head" [so] many times, sometimes "sinking", sometimes "swimming". the main thing [i have found], don't be afraid ! if i can do it, anyone can, and i have screwed up so many times over my years i don't think anyone can count that high !
everyone has to start somewhere, so now is the time !

Maybe you could call The Finer Details restoration shop and ask who they use to machine blocks. The people Ken sold the business to are reported to be pretty nice folks, so they may not mind telling you who they use. Just an idea.

Could get good used magnum and use that. The LA motors didn't come with roller cams and the head design flows better than the LA. If you want to put the time/money into the LA you can build it to be better. You need to see if that rust on the cylinder walls will hone out. If not it bore time.

He already did that, sounds like he doesn't want to do it again.




Yes, they did. Mid 80's for the 318, 89 for the 360.




He just wants a cruiser. Did you actually read his post?

Sniper, the OP resurrected the "Super Duper MPG 318" thread and added info/goals not mentioned in this thread.

EDIT: Disregard the above. I had OP's mixed up.

Don't use a dingleberry hone on any engine
Buy a good adjustable hone like a Lisle and use it with a good 1/2 inch drill motor and use something to spray kerosene or diesel fuel into the bores while honing them.
Malke sure and thoroughly clean the bores afterwards o they don't kill the rings on start up due to honing grit, debris, stuck into the cylinder walls