I would like to hear the argument for the aluminium lined wheel lugs on late Chargers with factory hubcaps. What a crappy design!
These are mine, after I wrestled them off. Converting to another set of wheels to avoid this mess.

Ragnar in Iceland

They were on most vehicles starting in the late seventies, not just on Mopars. Whoever designed them should have been fired,but probably got a promotion for saving money!

They're just cheap junk. I first saw them on 1972 GM cars with the optional wheels. Sometime before 1978, we ran across one on a Pontiac with Rally II wheels we couldn't get off. We wound up using an air chisel to get it off. Despite trying to be careful the wheel was badly damaged from an appearance standpoint. Our '13 and '16 300 and Durango all came with that garbage. I replaced all with all steel chrome nuts indistinguishable from the original aside from being slightly longer.

If not these, then pretty danged close. If you live in the rust belt, be proactive and replace the factory garbage before they become a problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134379235433?

You can thank the use of impact wrenches for that mess , just buy aftermarket chrome replacements unless you really want to buy new wheels .

Impacts, massive over torque, and the fact that fractional size sockets will fit, but are just a little too big which catches just the crown of the lug nut and literally tries to peel the cover off the inner nut. If the correct metric deep well socket along with the correct torque were used, we would have a lot less trouble with them. It wouldn't eliminate the problems because it is a $hitty design, but would help enormously.

Most of these wheel lugs are spec'd to torque in the 100# to 140#. We frequently see torque in the 250+# range.

too many uggga uggas

LOL! Mine goes budda budda.

I take them off and install by hand. Impact likes to destroy them.

^^^ Agree - if I'm feeling lazy, I'll use my battery-powered impact gun set to "weak".

IIRC, GM did that cap-thing on their lug nuts in the '70s.

Just did all 6 tires on my Dually, which has Alcoas and stainless lug nut caps.
They pop right off, but oddly enough I've never lost one.
(Knocking on wood, lest I just jinxed myself)

i get a chuckle out of the plastic "screw on" nut covers [usually black, although i have seen some "chrome" ones as well] that guys try to use an air gun to remove them, but forget which way is "lefty-loosey" on the gun switch.

Every time I bought a car or truck with those lug nuts on it, one of the 1st modifications on the vehicle was to replace them all with real lug nuts. The best money I've spent, one time and your usually good for the life of the vehicle.

I've had them round off before. I usually drill the stud out to remove the unremovable lug. Start with a small 1/8" bit (I buy cheap new bits that i only expect to use a few times), keep it as centered as possible and as straight as possible. The small diameter drill bit usually cuts a lot faster with a lot less pressure required. Then step up to a bigger, then a bigger bit bit until you reach the stud diameter (usually about the 3rd bit in the hole). When the last drill gets to the bottom of the nut, they usually fall off. Then you remove the wheel, the brake drum or rotor, and replace the stud and all the lug nuts. I have not screwed up a wheel since I started drilling out the stud.

You have to be more careful ordering lug nuts these days, a lot of aftermarket lug nuts are the same shell covered crap.

Here in the rust belt, we get the same results but a different cause. The actual nut rusts and swells up under the cap. Now it's an in-between size.

Same solution, solid lugs.

Well, every time I hook up my trailer to my 2020 Ram, I cuss at the SOB who decided that the hook points for the safety chains needed to be tucked several inches up and forward from where they were on my 09. It's easier to find detailed nuclear weapon designs on the internet than it is to get at these things.

Would this help:

www.ebay.com/itm/155033116449

or this:

www.ebay.com/itm/202791502038

or this:

www.ebay.com/itm/115805288014

I tried the chrome lug nuts and the cheap china chrome peels off after some use. Maybe a better quality nut is my answer?

i think i have McGard plated lug nuts on my 08 mustang.
i have swapped the wheels at least 50 times when switching to the drag wheels for racing.. i use torque sticks on my impact wrench when installing.
haven't had any problems with the chrome peeling.

McGard lug nuts are guaranteed to not peel or rust. I bought some of them back in the 80's and was very satisfied with them.

Maybe I am seeing it wrong, but it looks like there is an alignment shank below the tapered seat, and at least one has been bottomed out ... not to say the crappy stainless or whotever covers is a good idea ...
My Mustang uses these worthless things too.

A set of Mcgards is on the bench.

I had a 66 Charger, don't remember it having a shanked lug.

I suspect like most bad ideas, these shell encased lug nuts were probably a cost cutting deal.
The actual lug nuts are undersized slightly, which probably makes them cheaper, then they get encased with thin stamped stainless steel shells, so there is no chroming costs, and they look great before they get killed and holding the wheels on. There would be no warranty issues because any damage could be blamed on improper torque, and there would be no way to disprove that. If they saved a penny per lug, look at the annual cost savings in a year for just the number of vehicles with those lug nuts. These shell nuts started showing up in the late 70s or early 80s. That would be a pretty big pile of pennies in each car company's pockets.

Not sure why this is new to anyone....we've had these chrome capped lugs around since the 80s(EVERY manufacture uses them) Rust forms on the steel nut under the chrome cap. Normally a 19mm or 3/4"......chisel the chrome cap off(simple in seconds) and a 18mm slides right on....I've done 1000s of them.