I know that asking about electrical gremlins is annoying when you aren't hands-on, but I'm just looking at a "right direction" guide at the moment. I'm already going through and checking for pinched wires and burns at the moment.

1976 Charger. Dash has been out for HVAC work. Instrument cluster has always been a PITA, but the wipers, gauge lights, both buzzers and the corresponding warning lights have worked. Put everything back together as normal two days ago, and currently I have:

*All outside lights, but no gauge lights...unless I set the E-brake. Then I get the gauge lights, BRAKE light and the Fasten Seatbelt Light.
*Both buzzers are silent. They both bench test fine.
*Wipers are now inoperable. However, turning the wipers on does turn on the light bulb for the HVAC panel.
*Uncertain about any gauge readout that isn't the speedometer. Nothing new, but still. Fuel gauge is trying, if it is inaccurate.

I've looked at the Wiper/Headlight switch wiring, everything is in place. I've checked grounds, everything looks right. Is this a potential column issue? The car is due to Carlisle this year and I would rather drive it there than trailer it there and back. Any help would be appreciated.

Sounds like a ground problem. Did you check all the fuses with a meter or test light?

Planning on it next shop time I get. All I know (from the last fifteen minutes) is that if I pull the cluster away from the frame, most everything comes back: gauge lights without e-brake on, wipers, etc. Right now thinking either ground or maybe a pinch/disconnect when fully installed.

I'm about at my wits' end here. I'm willing to take suggestions or the name of a reputable, solid shop between Louisville and Nashville at this point.

* I've checked the two panel wiring connectors. They are good. I've got dash lights, turn signals, the hi-beam light.
* I have the key-in buzzer. I do not have the seat belt buzzer. Both are known good.
* I do not have the BRAKE light or the FASTEN BELTS light. Both have worked in the past.
* I do not have the TEMP gauge. This usually doesn't work, but it bench-tests just fine.
* I do not have the OIL PRESSURE gauge. Bench tests fine. Usually doesn't work.
* I do not have a FUEL gauge. I loosened and messed with the ground for both fuel gauge and fuel pump. Nothing, except the pump output changing based on ground quality.
* I have lights, wipers, turn signals, hazards.
* I have moved the dash ground wire around to four different locations, all of which should be suitable. Nothing.
* I have an RT-ENG voltage regulator. No LED light. I've changed in a different volt reg, not sure if functioning, but didn't improve the situation. Will pick one up from the local parts store to test.

...what the hell else could it be?!?

Still sounds ground related.

Firewal to engine? Firewall to battery? Dash frame to firewall?

How are you bebch testing the gauges?

There might be a clue in the above bolded comment as the Ebrake switch provides a ground to the E brake dash light. that in turn may be back feeding the other circuits. Find your ground point's on the dash circuit board / harness and make separate connections to ground if needed
keep us posted

Check each wire at the junction on the firewall.

Had one that would intermittently quit running. Drove me crazy for months. I finally had a buddy help me check each wire at the junction box on the firewall. He leaned over the fender, and I was under the dash. Together we pushed each wire in the junction box together. We found 3 that were not making full contact. If you bumped the harness just right, it lost connection, but if you bumped it just right it worked great.

You getting things working when you set the e brake triggered my experience. I'm betting setting the e brake is moving the wires to something that has a flakey connection.

Update:

I pulled my RT-ENG voltage regulator out and tested it in a friend's '76 Fury. The LED came on no problem, as did his gauges. So I don't think it is a ground issue, I think it is a power issue. That would make a lot more sense at the moment. Per the '76 Electrical Manual, I've got three wires to chase:

* On the 6-point instrument panel bundle, E2 20 Orange
* On the 12-point instrument panel bundle, G1 20 Dark Green

I'm going to step out and run some multimeter tests, but for the moment, a question: the schematic is great for showing how the power from the instrument cluster voltage regulator is shipped out across the cluster (one line to the three gauges, one line to the instrument panel lamps, turn signals, hi-beam indicator, and one line that runs to the power source for the radio), but I'm not 100% clear how power is sent into the regulator. Any ideas?

Through the circuit board to the ignition post on the VR. This diagram might or might not help much. https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wq9BJnm8...Charger+1973+Complete+Wiring+Diagram.jpg

And solution has been found! Fuse #7, a 5A fuse, was the culprit. And you'd never know it, since that feeds power into the radio. Apparently the second wire at the radio power plug (CI 23 per the manual) is feeding the voltage regulator. I still don't have oil or temp, I never have. But having a fuel gauge is necessary, and that'll be enough to get me to Carlisle.

Well, that and some goodies from Firm Feel that should be on their way ASAP.

Thanks for the assistance!

Oil and temp gauges work like the fuel sending unit. momentarily ground it and the gauge should peg. If it does, bad sender, if not, well troubleshooting time.

Seatbelt buzzer and key in buzzer were the first 2 things I chucked in the trash on my late B bodies including my current 78 fury sport .

It's a weird thing for me. Having the buzzers makes me feel like the car hasn't been messed with. When I was a kid, the buzzers were alive in everything.

I like to rip the squawk box out of everything.

But I also often have doors open and keys in ignition.

Considering how those dash plugs are designed, any remote change you plugged something in upside down?