loosen distributor and pull it ahead about 1/4 inch and see if the motor runs smoother. I think Al is dead on with timing. Had a truck that the distributor loosened up and vibrated back and exhaust manifolds were glowing red. Birdtracker

My first guess would be ignition timing, then cam timing. Verify both. Let us know when you find the issue.

I'd bet on ignition timing also. Having the distributor locked at a certain figure (34/36 in this case) is NOT the same as initial timing. Think of this for a minute, I would doubt you could even get it started if you had 34 degrees initial timing.

Buying one complete have the seller put it on stand and and check as much as possible or if they don’t want to do that start deducting or walk away, it could cost you in the long run. Doug

6 pacbee.i had plenty of drag motors with locked distributors at that timing and worked ok.it fires ok.and revs up ok but cant get to idle no matter what i do to the carb and headers glow red.when that happens i shut it down and let cool

Don't know what to tell you then.

back out the mixture screws a 1/4 turn, and see what happens.
Late timing definitely does this but typically not at idle...i mean it would have to be after tdc.
Lean at idle would do it.

Could the stock timing cover marks be off with the ATI damper?

The reason for the compression test was to perhaps shed some light on the cam timing situation.

If it was way low you’d have reason to suspect the cam was retarded.

b1 max i had all 4 screw out at 2 1/2 and did nothing

Make sure the distributor pickup coil is not wired backwards.

SO THIS IS WHAT I BOUGHT.WAS GOING TO USE THE MOTOR IN THE DRAG CAR AND TRANS IN MY STREET CAR,AFTER HAVING PROBLEMS I LOOKED UP THE CAM # 23-000-9.TO LOOK UP WHAT THE VALVES SHOULD BE SET AT.RIGHT NOW WHAT THEY SET IT AT IS 0.15 INTAKE ,020 EXHAUST.ONLY THING I CAN FIND OUT ON CAM NUMBER IS ITS A CAM CORE.SO MUST BE A CUS511 Low Deck Stroker Engine (estimated 650 to 700 HP on Pump Gas):
Built 727 Transmission (New Dynamic 9.5 inch street/strip Converter):

This is a brand new / turn key engine (never been fired). Machine work and short block done by Precision Engines in Granite City, IL.
Why am I selling it? I built this engine to go in a 69 Satelite to be a street/strip car. Before I finished the build I found a good deal on a Hellcat engine, lost my mind
and pulled this engine and trans to do a Hellcat conversion.

Engine Details:
- 400 Cold Weather 230 Block (.030
overbore) - This is strongest Mopar
production block, very hard to come by
as they only made them in the summer
of 1971.
- Molnar Forged Crank and Rods
- Ross Pistons (10.5 to 1 Compression for
pump gas)
- TRICK FLOW 270 HEADS!! (very hard
to find right now) flow 353 cfm on the
intake at .700 inch lift.
- Comp Solid Roller Cam and lifters( see
picture for specs)
- Smith Push Rods
- Harland Sharp Roller Rocker Arm (1.5
ratio)
- Indy Max Wedge Port Intake (4500
flange)
- ATI Harmonic Balancer
- 1020 Holley Dominiator Carb Built by
Dominic at Thumper Carbs (Dominic is
know for building Dominator's that run
well on the street and strip)
- BLP Racing Fuel Log
- MSD Billet Distributor
- Taylor 9MM Fire Power Spark Plug
Wires
- All new or rebuilt front accessories (
has a single serpentine belt running all
accessories including Power Steering
Pump)
- Electric Water Pump
- Hooker Super Comp Headers (For 69
Mopar B Body Chasis). These are
uncoated/painted black.
- Milodon Oil Pan

Transmission:
- Professionally built by Bob Brooks
- AA Transmission Reverse Manual Valve
Body with Low Band Apply
- Billet Steel Drum
- Hardened Pump Gears
- AA Trans 6-bolt Ultimate Sprag
- All other parts are high end and heavy
duty parts build to withstand 700 HP.
- Frank Lupo's Dynamic Converter: 9.5
Inch RACE/STREET. 3500 to 6500 RPM
Stahl
TOM GRIND..........

Since it's at idle leave the dist. loose enough to move and once it starts advance the timing to say around 45 and see if it helps. Shouldn't hurt anything and will tell you if you're moving in the right direction.

so if i hold my hand over the primarys side of the carb intake it stays running

Alright so figure out if the vacuum leak is between the carb and intake, intake and heads, or someplace else. Try carb clean/starting fluid trick

gtx matt,so a vacuum leak would be a sign as my hand is over the primary of the carb and it stays running

Carbureted motors that won't idle below 1500 RPM are usually caused by one of two things, to rich on the idle circuits or to lean
Sounds like yours is to lean
Do you have another carb to try? Maybe the one you have has some internal fuel passages plug, gunk up

cab.im going to try another carb.guess ill find a cheap on from ebay.im thinking its real lean.this is a new thumper carb.why would he plug the outer circuts at all 4 corners

Instead of throwing money at it, I’d give thumper a shout first. Second, try some of the suggestions mentioned by other members. Spraying carb cleaner around the carb base and intake gaskets, idle will increase.

Definitely try carb cleaner or something near the intake to head area, underside by the valley pan, and around the base of the carb.

Like others have mentioned, it’s either too lean or the timing is retarded. You’ve verified the timing mark with a piston stop so that is likely ruled out, but if it doesn’t die with your hand covering the carb it sounds like it’s getting excess air somewhere.