so this is the engine and specs i bought from a local mopar person.cant find any info on the cam.email comp cams.heard nothing.that customer service sucks,thumper offers no turning advise.that customer service sucks.moal of the story.never buy a engine unless it wasw dynoed or you can here it running.if you do.spend a few hundred bucks and tear it down and check someones work.......................... - 400 Cold Weather 230 Block (.030
overbore) - This is strongest Mopar
production block, very hard to come by
as they only made them in the summer
of 1971.
- Molnar Forged Crank and Rods
- Ross Pistons (10.5 to 1 Compression for
pump gas)
- TRICK FLOW 270 HEADS!! (very hard
to find right now) flow 353 cfm on the
intake at .700 inch lift.
- Comp Solid Roller Cam and lifters( see
picture for specs)
- Smith Push Rods
- Harland Sharp Roller Rocker Arm (1.5
ratio)
- Indy Max Wedge Port Intake (4500
flange)
- ATI Harmonic Balancer
- 1020 Holley Dominiator Carb Built by
Dominic at Thumper Carbs (Dominic is
know for building Dominator's that run
well on the street and strip)
- BLP Racing Fuel Log
- MSD Billet Distributor
- Taylor 9MM Fire Power Spark Plug
Wires
- All new or rebuilt front accessories (
has a single serpentine belt running all
accessories including Power Steering
Pump)
- Electric Water Pump
- Hooker Super Comp Headers (For 69
Mopar B Body Chasis). These are
uncoated/painted black.
- Milodon Oil Pan

What's gonna happen to the engine? What stroke is it? I've read the whole thread, sorry if I missed it, but was the TDC mark verified? Amount of advance verified? Good luck, in any case

You need more info on the cam than this?

What do you want for the engine? Also never saw what the car was.

You have a Private Message.

I find it hard to believe that Thumper won't help after you bought a carb from him.
He helped me before I ever bought any thing.He is one of the better vendors here.
I had an issue similar to yours just opposite symptoms.Its hard solving tuning issues on a web board. Can you call someone or
bring it to someone for 2nd set of eyes?
Whats funny the person who actually figured out my issue was BigDad's favorite person...lol

i know a guy had an all aluminum indy engine in dragster . he couldnt get it to idle pulled the heads off took them to reputable machine shop had a pressure check ran well the heads didnt pass the pressure check for roller springs he installed heard back on engine and got it to idle . it may not be your problem but run a compression check on each cylinder with plugs out all cylinders should be within 10 lbs of eachother

Why? Already determined it’s the carbs fault

What is missing? just curious, trying to learn.

I see the lobes, the duration, the lift, the separation, and the intake centerline.

Only thing missing are the timing events.

Aren't those discernible?

Indeed they are.
@.050:
21.5/61.5 - intake
64.5/24.5 - exhaust

If installed with the intake c/l as per the tag.

What’s actually missing is the recommended lash spec.
But anything between .018”-.026” would be close enough to rule that out as being the problem.

Got it on the lash. I just put in a Howards solid and was surprised to see .016 on the card, so I understand.

PROBLEM FIX. AFTER 8 HOURS ON IT TODAY.today i had no lawn service to do and no car show or cruishing,raining day so thought ill fiquire this crap out.,after going back into the timing set.took it off of 4 degree advance put it on tdc.put it back together same.bump timing up to 40,same.took off carb.drill holes in throttle plates,same last ditch effort as nothing else worked.i swapped the idle bleeds and it worked .set idle and reset timing.this time i blame thumper for that one.will keep car and see what it does.will take down ads.after 3 weeks it was something so simple as the air bleeds was put in wrong

I have been following this...Great find!

X2
I see you out of st.Louis .what track you race at?

Still not Dom's fault. Glad you got it figured out. Now go beat on it.

car nut.thumper built the carb.why was the bleeds put in the wrong place.the motor was built correctly.next thing is should i put everything back the way it was.i didnt mention during the week i change the valve lash from 15 int,20 exhaust to 25 straight up.and that didnt fix it.but i might go change that.i dont feel i should go back in and change it back to 4 degree advanced.all that does is change the power band.should i put the power valve back in carb.i did plug it.do i put rivets in the throttle blades where i drilled them.it idles ok

Congrats on fixing it! So it was predominantly spark advance. Did you buy the carb from Thumper?

.025 hot is about as loose as I would go. If the jetting was with a power valve you better put it back in, or you'll be very lean up top.