You have to take one bolt off the back of ladder bars, top bottom no matter. You can’t get the car balanced right without doing that, all four corners have to move, I would do all the shocks too.

Thy I did pull the front shocks on case there was an issue. Didn't think there would be since they just came back from Afco. Removing the ladder bar bolt would remove all preload. I wanted to know how much it had just for reference. It'll never make a pass with the bars neutral. So what it scales with no preload really doesnt give me any info. It launches straight and level.
Doug

When i was using the hoist it had alignment turn plates on the front scales. So when it was set done the tires could slide ourward and find their center.

[quote=dvw]Thy[quote=cudaman1969]
That discrepancy is caused by the bind in the ladders bars. To get any kind of reference of how much weight is on each wheel bolt has to be out. Weight jacks corner to corner, diagonally. Put 80 pounds on right rear hook up bolt and go racing. Ladder bars are the same as rear attached to frame no amount of jacking will change anything in the back unless the whole frame flexes. Your weight has to be in the chair to set up properly, like it will be raced. Tried and true procedures

Maybe I haven't been clear. Post #1; The results were inaccurate. I used the laser incorectly. No slip plates.The pictures in post #8 are; Pic #1 car without driver Pic #2 with me, suit, helmet as raced sitting at the line. These weights were taken after post #1 in which the results were incorrect. The 2nd time around weights were taken with slip plates for the front wheels. Scales leveled with in 1/16" all the way around. The car was lowered from the hoist. Then jounced front, back, and side to side. Post #13 This compares the readings taken when lowering the car using the hoist vs rolling the car onto the scales. As you can see the results are within a few lbs. This may be due to the fact that the rear scales were 3/4" low using this method. Yes I could've removed the ladder bar bolt and removed the pre load. And if the front torsion bars could be loaded equally. Then, yes I understand that would give a true weight distribution without bias. Moving the torsion bar with the driver in the seat to level the car induces preload itself. And trust me that preload disappears with the front wheels in the air. I don't understand put 80'bs on the right rear? Add 80lbs ballast? Add preload until the previous right rear reading is 80lbs heavier? Why 80lbs? What if one car has more left to right bias to start with. Or one driver is 150lbs and another is 350lbs? I can't see how one set amount of weight fits all applications. When I built my car the prevailing theory was to add a few flats of preload. Then add or subtract preload until the car went straight. This is how it's been for 10 years. Only a flat or so change ever. And that was when the rear shocks and springs were upgraded. Since I'll be setting up a new car simiilar to mine, I was curious on my weights. Figured to start out with his with the same rear weight bias as mine and go from there.
Doug