Well, i got close. Some head work, and picked up 25 hp over january dyno session. I tried 110.5 cl first, then moved the cam to 108. It only gained 1 hp average from 6200 to 7600 rpm. But torque was up 5 ft pds at 6200, tappering fast.

Put that thing and go race. Can’t wait to hear the results

Is this with race gas or? If gasoline it's pretty fat
I'm thinking if it is gasoline, you might gain another 25 HP by leaning the AFR down so it is around 12.6 to 13.5AFR Lean is mean Be careful on the timing and spark plug heat range also, sneak up on it, one jet size at a time or small bleed changes, not hit it with a big

Cab, i run constant flow methanol injection. a total of 22 pulls, and the fuel curve was gradually perfected
one small change at a time till no more power was seen at 6200 through 7600 rpm. timing was set the same way, and landed at 34 or 35 degrees giving equal results. so for 3000 density altitude, i know exactly where to run it. that was the air quality during testing. we set an altime record high temp for April 12 here. it was 80 degrees by the end of the setion.
I went through the vacuum system before the dyno tests and was able to pull eight inches with the motor cold, ready for transport to the dyno using a drill, spinning the pump to about 2600rpm. but as you can see it didn't do as well running. i don't know why, other than maybe the aluminum block just doesn't have as good a ring seal under load as an iron block. As for the dyno, it had just been calibrated.
The more i think about it, the happier i am with the final results. The 1,000 hp mark was an ego thing. A cast iron block would have to make 35 more horsepower to go as fast due to the extra 105 pounds my megablock weighed over this BMP block.
At this point, if i were to chase down that magic 1,000 hp number, a dry sump system with better vacuum would probably push it over the top. As it is, i am only certed to 8:50 so i will most likely be running it at lower rpm to stay at or above 8:50. total car weight with driver should be 2850 at the line.
All testing was done using my race headers, so no loss there when it goes in the car. it might actually run a touch better as collector length will be closer to the recomended length and open air, rather than the extra tube needed to hook up my side exit headers.

I've never ran any motor of my own or helped tune a straight alcohol motor so I know nothing about them as far as Lamda or AFR numbers and what they like to make the best power
E85 is my current choice on my race motors, I may end up trying straight methanol alcohol on my next deal if pump E85 doesn't work well
I'm hoping E85 will work well with NOS first and later on 25 to 30 lbs. of boost

Good luck with it, Cab. i do know that pump E85 at only 108 octane and has less cooling ability to avoid detonation versus straight methanol. for a boosted application running that much boost, i would be real carefull with E85 pump. It may not do well resisting detonation where a methanol motor you just run it VERY fat, like 3.4 versus 5.6 for a modest normally aspirated motor. also power will be lower a touch( 3 to 5 percent?) with e 85. but you don't need to take 35 gallons with you for a race weekend, as you might with methanol if you make a lot of passes. i average 2 gallons for warmup and over 1.5 for each pass on methanol.

video link
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...2132673&sfnsn=mo&mibextid=6aamW6

No matter how you look at it, that thing is stout!!

What head work do you attribute the +25 HP to?

I remember your first dyno thread and thinking if you ever get the opportunity to put a "fire slot" in those pistons.

Greg, what was the crankcase vacuum on the dyno? Is it the column showing about 3 "Hg or psi ?

With your converter, I can see why you didn't pull lower, but did you get any info on the torque peak? ft-lbs and rpm
From the posted dyno sheet, it looks like torque is declining during the entire pull.

Enough power with that number to get your 2850lb car well below its cert for sure. Anxious to hear how it goes at the track with the new found HP.

Like Jim asked what was the vacuum on the dyno? FWIW my little 540" aluminum block deal in the blue car pulls 11" with a cordless drill on the stand and its Star pump

So close, maybe some 5w20 for the glory run?

on the dyno vacuum was only abou 6 inch, tapering to about 3 at peak hp. i notice on my 550/440-1 motor the power is only about 20 to 25 hp different till it passes about 6800 rpm, then the better heads(572-13) pull away. so i don't know what to expect for ETs, i will just have to give it a shot and see.

Nice work Greg! It'll run fast, I have no doubt you'll go faster than 850's

i fan see it going 8.50s but the converter might be a bit tight since this moror makes its power 400 rpm higher than the 440-1 heads, or so it appears. but not having done the upgrade to 7:50 cert, the current stall of 6200 will work ok.

I would be cocerned about the vacuum dropping at RPM. Loosing ring seal. Did it put alot of oil in the puke tank?

maybe a quart in 22 pulls?
vacuum started at 6.4 inch, dropped to 4 inch at 7600.

,😂 thanks, but no, i will pop for a dry sump first! less chance of driving over any parts!

One of the Comp Eliminator tricks use to be to use 0 wt. synthetic oil for one run, I use 5w20WT in all my street and strip motors with lots of bearing clearances, .0035+ on the mains(both sizes) and .003+ on the rods also on both stock and 2.200 rod journal sizes
Oil does two things, correct It lubricates and cools the metal rotating and moving parts in the motor
The thinner oils lube all the rotating and moving internal parts sooner than the ticker oils due to making pressure sooner than the thicker, slower circulating oils do

The Vette runs 0 weight oil all the time...The bearings were 6 years old when they came out this past winter.

i may consider a synthetic 5w30. then test the oil after a few runs. Sound like a decent plan?