I'm needing to find somebody (or a shop) that would be willing to rent me an auto body rotisserie for 3-4 months while I'm prepping my (last) car project. Basically, I need it for stripping, installing subframe connectors, a rollcage, misc tid-bits and possibly priming of the shell. If any of you have such an item and you could spare it for 3 to 4 months tops, I am willing to pay accordingly. It will be secured in a locked shop/basement and promptly returned upon completion or the time specified. BTW, I'm located in the Savannah, Tenn area. Please, PM me here if you have or know somebody that can help me out with one, thanks...wb

Have a buddy here in Phoenix that’s selling his

How far are you willing to drive?

Friend of mine has one in northern KY.
It's a whirly jig brand

I'll see if he is interested in renting it out

Just loaned mine out Saturday to put a 68' Chevelle up on it. I know, I know but Chevys need loving also.

As a side note, I would put the subframe connectors on before you hang it. You want the cars weight on the wheels, on a flat surface, not hanging by it's ends.

Thanks Speed, I am in the process of planning and building a platform just for the subframe connectors and cage installation. The last one I did was on jackstands and while it worked, it was a pain!

And thanks GTX, those rotisseries are great and unfortunately no longer available. Kentucky's a easy in and out in a day and would be GREAT, thanks!

Have you ever measured the change in those resting structures? Try it right side up and upside down on a jig.

What about people jacking up on the subframe connectors to take any perceived sag out of the chassis?

No, I've never measured the change. I've done it twice, doors shut properly before and after. I was just going for keeping it as it was.

I didn't perceive any sag on the two I did. Very solid cars.

I suppose a surface plate and factory specs would be needed to be certain a structure is where it should be before and after.

They don't move enough to be a concern, on the tires or on a jig. I've had cars that the door gaps looked goofy, jack up against the connectors, gaps look better, doors closed better, button it up. Works both ways.

This is another of those red herring deals. Like don't run a small port intake on a 340 or weak 741 pumpkins from bearing size. All bs...

Under 1/16th on the one we measured. With the tolerance these cars were built with, worrying about it is a non starter.

I guess it could be 'internet lore" as they say.

Not having a way to measure before and after of both methods, I know I was going with what seemed to make sense. I had the options of either having it supported on jackstands, or under the tires. Put a unibody car up on stands at one end, and the doors are tight.

And regarding the tolerances, my way of thinking is, whatever way they are stacked, I want to keep them as close to what they were when the car was welded together.
I don't doubt what you say about it not mattering where a car is supported. I just don't have a rotisserie (or the space for one) to try it that way. -I wish I did. I'd love to have one for my Duster project.