My 70 Cuda is at the body shop now, but progress just began. I'm building a 540ci Hemi. I'm planning on using a factory style K-member and I'd prefer not running an elephant ear mounting plate. Looking for any advice on modifications or products that would help the Hemi fit and work correctly in this E body.

What are my factory style K member options? Can I make a factory small block K member work well?

Any trick drivers-side torque strap products out there?

Which motor mounts for TTI headers?

Are inner fender mods required for most "taller than stock" valve covers?

Is there an aftermarket power steering box that can be used with TTI headers / Hemi or is manual steering the only option?


After reading about another member's major Hemi headaches, I'd like to try to prevent these issues now, rather than being upset once it comes home painted.

Any other tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

Mine Hemi is solid mounted in my 70 Challenger with front and mid plates in the stock location using Indy's passengers side relief valve covers and no clearance issues anywhere else with anything.

I think someone is making the Schumacher mounts again. Check those out. I've used them and liked them.

Contact Al Debevec: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/al-debevec-k-member-mods.427818/

His number is in the thread posted above. He will make you one, perfectly and with the correct motor mounts so everything fits the way it should.

I did a similar install in my 70 Bee.

Small block and big block use the same K-frame in 1970, send him yours and he will convert it. Stock mounts he provides are used. I have taller covers on my Stage V heads and they clear the inner wells but it is CLOSE, you can massage the passenger one if you like. TTI's fit like a dream. I installed my motor from the underneath and the valve covers had to come off for it to fit up through, But it cleared everything fine. I am running a factory manual steering box with no issues.

Jeff

Well, you may want to avoid headaches with a Hemi, but if you actually do, then you'll be the first. There is a reason they are called Hemiroids.

I used Al Debevec's K member with mounts in the stock locations. With stock power steering and 2 1/4" TTI headers. I also used original valve covers. It all fits, but just barely. If still available, Debevec's Hemi Ks have always had the best stock positioning.

There is a conversion late model power steering box that is smaller than the OE power box.

I just use an aluminum hardware store turn buckle on the left side. It works, is easy to install, looks good and is barely visible behind the power steering pump. If this is a street car, solid mounts profoundly change the comfort of the car and are not for everyone.

As I said, I have mounts in the stock locations with 2 1/4" TTIs. If every last pony is not the goal, then you could consider the 2 1/8" headers for a little more room around the steering box. But then, if you go with the smaller converted aftermarket box the 2 1/4" may not be as tight. Every decision affects several other things.

The height of the valve cover is not the issue. It is the width. It is super tight at the passenger shock tower. Larger cams put the exhaust rockers into the stock dimension valve covers which is why after markets are wider there. But that can put them right into the shock tower. There are aftermarket covers that are said to fit, but be careful who you listen to when you purchase them.

A few other details on my combo; '70 Barracuda originally 318. 540 Hemi using World iron block, MP Eddy heads. 518OD.

Here are pictures of my valve covers with the passenger side relief.

Since you are going big inches and its at the body shop, this would be a good idea to add in.

http://store.uscartool.com/Level-3-...r-Tool-Mopar-Dodge-Challenger_p_154.html
or
http://store.uscartool.com/Level-3-...Mopar-Plymouth-Cuda-Barracuda_p_155.html

Whos plates did you use? Did you have to modify the floor tunnel for the midplate? And the starter and torque converter?

I made the plates out of 3/8" aluminum for the front plate and 1/8" steel for the midplate. I did not have to modify the trans tunnel for the midplate. I use a 1/8 spacer with the converter and the starter bolted up as normal.