I only have a regular timing light. I need one with either a dial back advance or a digital advance feature. What do you guys recommend? The reviews are all over the place online. I want a good reliable one, but would like to keep the cost around $100 or so. Thanks!

Hillbilly timing tape the balancer and stick with a static light.

dial backs from different companies will read different. BTDT. I like no fuss, std light and the balancer marked so I can read from 10-15 ATDC to 40-50 BTDC.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/how-to-hillbilly-timing-tape.316278/

I would clean the dampener & the tape/install it & someone had good luck with then spraying the tape with clear lacquer to help it stay put & not fly off which is a common complaint. Me I would just find/confirm the TDC slit on the dampener/zero on the timing cover & I just need several marks, 10-15-20-36-90-180-270 degrees BTDC using the tcover as a ruler or (1/16) is 1 degree or .0632" (just my OCD). If the tape did come off I would use it to measure marks on the dampener, easy peasy.

Have you looked on Market Place or CraigsList for one? They are there occasionally and are usually $25 or so for lightly used ones.

Just out of curiosity, what necessitates the use of an adjustable timing light?

My sears dial back has always worked well for me. Not up on the new ones to offer any suggestions.

Old snap on off eBay. I got one for about 100 bucks.

My Snapon I bought at the shop probally 35 years ago.Still works like new.They do e price.Oh yeah mine even works with my MSD bok and ignition.Plus it has rpm

I have the same Snap-on unit with the RPMs on the back and it is rock steady even with an MSD box. As you said they are pricy I remember about $350 20years ago.

Gus

I have a lightly used Ferret like the one in the listing cleaner condition, but no case. PM me if interested. I can send you pic's etc.

Ebay Listing for ferret timing light

The harbor freight dialback works fine on a regular system. If you have a MSD box it'll work but you have to hook it up to a spare battery. If you use the same battery the MSD is connected to it won't work.

I did find a Mac Tools TL87 on Marketplace that is nearby. I'm waiting for a response from the seller.

The reason I am interested in one is because the engine seems like it could use more initial, but when I give it only 2 more degrees, it pings. It was suggested that I get one of the FBO advance limiter kits and put more initial, but keep the total at approx 34 degrees. Right now, I have no idea what the total advnce is.

I could do the timing tape, but the car is 90% a survivor, so I would prefer not to put a tape on the balancer. It's a matter of principle.

As mentioned above, just use the timing tab as an indicator to mark the timing positions on the balancer in chalk. Or use a piece of masking tape with white marker lines the same way. No need for a dial back IMHO. I don't use an adjustable light. I use masking tape with white marks by using the timing tab as a guide. Then remove it when I'm done.

I bought an Equus digital dial back probably close to twenty years ago. Looks like they still sell them. Works with any of my cars with an MSD and works with the Holley setup. Can't complain.

Anybody ever had their dial back calibrated?

for the vast majority of us, a timing light is a tool we use on "our combination". as the same sum of components can create vastly different results, so can ignition timing.
with that said, the only way one can get his combination [even using the same components as his next door neighbor] to it's utmost potential, is to [as Cab says] "test, test, and test some more".
in other words, make sure your damper is correctly marked for top dead, and mark a couple places for say, 32, 36, etc.
set your initial to what you think is best, check total at xxxxrpm, then go for a ride.
if it works out good, try a couple more degrees. if good, try a couple more, etc. if pinging [detonation] occurs, shorten total advance. rinse and repeat as many times as necessary.
the specific light used can be what works for you, as long as it is repeatable and you use the same light the same way every time.
i'm just throwing out a very basic description of the tuning process. testing and keeping very detailed notes will be an absolute necessity to get the very best out of your particular combination. your buddy's exact combination may yield very different results, depending on which of you test the most, and optimize what you have.
i hope i'm not confusing the issue at hand. if i am, i apologize, and just disregard my babbling.

Same here Gus, you can find an old Snap-on on eBay, FBMP, CL at a good price and then it can sit in your toolbox for another 35 years too

Mike

This is the correct answer. Or an old Sears/Craftsman/Penske from the same place.

Recently had a car in the shop finishing up. Owner had his light with him. Some cheap auto part store thing. Fine, just setting base. Dim, couldn't see. Grabbed my old MSD. Much better.

Advance lights don't like MSDs.

I have two of the old chrome Sears/Craftsman/Penske timing lights that I have bought used. Great lights! Use them to test injectors, too.

Another vote for finding a used Snap On on Craigslist. Worked for me.

Gus I think I paid under 200 when I bought mine.Only thing i ever did was replace the cord.Thats what I get for letting someone borrow it.Back in the day it was used all the time.Hasnt been out of the box now in probally 5 years.Have an old Craftsman dial back I bought in like 72 or so.Think the bulb went out I keep it for sentimal reasons