383 from a roll is a big ask to light the tires. Potentially with a clutch dump while rolling, maybe.

I'm going to say with what you describe , pretty much stock , no it won't . I have a 69 383 4 spd Dart GTS with 3.91's and it wouldn't break them loose on a roll ...

Rev it to 4grand, sidestep the clutch and it's a different story ...

Same here John, well sort of with my '69 GTX 440 4-speed and 3.54 and 255/60-15's on the rear it won't break rear wheels loose on a roll in the dry. Have to figure that the car on a roll has a lot of traction already to move the what nearly two-ton car, so overcoming that traction will take some torque and HP. And with Suregrip that traction is now divided by two or is that multiplied by two? At a dead stop with no tire rotation, it's easy to spin them versus overcoming the moving forward traction already there. Probably do it turning and unweighting the inside tire but difficult going straight.

Thanks for all the input. I will check the timing chain for stretch. It has a Hi-Rev 7500 electronic ignition on it, so I'm hoping that timing curve is decent. The initial timing is set to 12 BTDC and when I have tried to advance it further, the crappy California gas can't keep it from pinging.

After reading some of your stories, it appears I am expecting too much from a stock 383. It's a survivor, so I'm not going to hop it up. It's mostly a cruiser for me.

The balancer ring may have moved. You'll need to confirm the timing mark really is at tdc

being a survivor, it's imperative to check top dead center, and if the balancer is off, look it over very carefully for deterioration of the rubber ring.
in my opinion, if it has moved due to the rubber ring allowing the outer ring to move, i would replace the damper. you don't want it to come apart during "play time".
after replacing the damper, check your timing closely to make sure you don't have chain issues.
you will more than likely have to disassemble the distributor and weld up the weight slot, thereby allowing you to set initial timing at 15+ degrees [depending on your combination] and have 34-36 total when all in.
you can start spring experimenting with removing the factory heavy spring and starting there. make sure when you have the distributor out, the weights move freely, and return to rest freely as well. you will need to check the weights and advance plate for wear or burrs, which can cause sticking to occur.
after the mechanical curve is sorted, you will then need to start playing with the vacuum advance. if you can get 50ish degrees advance while cruising at ???? rpm under no load, you will obtain gas mileage you would probably not get by not using this feature on your distributor.
just my own personal experience playing with distributors over the years.
your mileage will vary.

I see 34 and 36 degrees total mechanical timing mentioned a couple times.
Waaaay back, I used 38 per the Direct Connection manual (383). Is gas that bad now? I run 35 on my 11.25:1, iron head 360 w/ 93 octane. No issues.

I bought my Roadrunner new after I got out of the Navy. Bone stock 383 4 speed 3.23 sure grip. It would not spin the tires on a roll. Playing with the timing didn't help. When I blew that 383 engine up while racing, I went to a 440. A 440 has been in my car ever since. It will light the tires up on a roll.

Not a 383. My 9.0-1 360 will rip the 275/60's from a 10,20, almost 30 mph roll. If you you power shift with full throttle on it will keep spinning all the way thru 2nd and part of 3rd as well. 3.55 with a close ratio 2.47 1st . Yes a 383 should be able to easily brake loose.
Doug

Is that a bone stock 360?

Back in the day I had a 70 Road Runner with a small block installed. Hemi 4 speed, 3:23 Sure Grip with L 60 15 tires and traction bars. 1st gear, clutch engaged, throttle wide open, would break the tires loose when the cam started pulling, for about a month with a new clutch, until the clutch would start to slip. The clutch was pretty much junk in about 3 months. Sure was fun while it lasted! Definitely nothing stock in that setup.

A stock 383 motor? In a drag car? I wouldn't expect it, but a few might surprise you. Some were definitely stronger then others. I beat on a lot of 383 Mopars in those days, if they hung around long, they didn't stay stock.

Did you recurve the distributor ... shorten the mechanical advance .. before advancing it that far, Stock Chrysler distributors , even those sold thru Direct Connection and Mopar Performance, have 30 degrees of mechanical advance so it's not a wonder why it pings at higher RPM.

Yeah, several people have said that. I don't know if it pings at high rpm, because when I advance it at all, it pings at lower rpm, so I back off the throttle. Clearly, I have some tuning to do.

Had a stock 1968 383 4 speed car with 3.23s. It would not spin the tires from a roll in first at any speed. 10 mph is probably the worst speed/rpm to hope the torque challenged 383 will spin the tires. What is that? 1300 rpm?

From a roll in first at 3000 rpm, it should jump pretty good, but still won’t spin the tires.

No its not. But it's pretty mild 220@.050", true 9.0-1 runs on 87 octane, 650 carb, dual plane intake, headers. Tall 27" 275/60 tires with only a 8.77 SLR. The last stock 383 I had was a 68 Dart GTS 4 speed. And yes it would spin from a roll with 255/60, 3.23, 2.66 1st 4 speed, completey untouched.
Doug

my first new car was a 1968 3834spd 3.55 gear road runner. it wouldn't sing the tires in 1st gear from a roll, even with those slippery goodyear wide boots.

Put the timing back to stock spec , 5BTDC till you get the distributor recurved. 4secs flat has an easy kit to limit mechanical advance.

With all the yes it will no it won't one thing that has not been mentioned is pavement conditions. IE: wet, dry, dry but dusty, sand, salt etc.
the only stock 383 I owned that would break the tires loose on a roll was if made a right turn and nailed it in low entering the turn
Straight line, dry clean pavement, NADA.

Clutch slip ? Throttle response ?