Had my steering column down to replace all the inside switches etc.
bolted the column back in position and the tuff wheel crush can keeps wanting to suck in almost metal to metal at the top (12 o’clock) and a larger gap at 6. The groove on the column shaft is lined up with the groove on the crush can as well.
What is proper gap between the crush can and the column?
Thinking maybe I can place something flat in the groove at the top perhaps to get that bottom to suck in properly?

Thanks

l


Looks like that maybe a truck crush can without the master spline.

It does have the small master spline inside and its lined up with the female groove on the column spline.

Then it should pull direct and even on to the splines. Post some pictures of the shaft and can splines.

Is there any up and down slop in the top (or bottom) shaft bearing support? With the can and the steering wheel bolted tight, can you tip the wheel up and down? Has the column been bent or partly clasped at some point? As it turns, does the wide part of the gap move around the column?

If the can and splines are good, that leaves: loose screws in the column, bad upper or lower bearings or bushings, a bent housing, a bent shaft, or a bent can.

Ok everyone I got it!!

BUT, not for lack of my laziness. I took the advice here and made sure the column was COMPLETELY bolted up, not just under the dash but at the firewall as well. I only had the column loose in the firewall with the bolts just threaded in a couple of turns, but tight under the dash. Upon bolting it up the proper way, the tuff wheel can installed like butter. Guess the "geometry" has to be just right.

Thanks again to everyone that took time to respond greatly appreciated!

and tanks for the update

very happy to hear it was a simple fix.