Internal Regulated Alternator
#3083884
10/06/22 05:32 PM
10/06/22 05:32 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 181 Stow,Ohio
RBSat66
OP
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 181
Stow,Ohio
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I have a 66 Plymouth Satellite and want to put a bigger amp alternator on it. It has an extenrnal regulater and I'm wondering what I"d have to do to put one on.I'm looking to go to 100 to 130 amp
Last edited by RBSat66; 10/06/22 05:38 PM.
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: RBSat66]
#3083890
10/06/22 06:11 PM
10/06/22 06:11 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807
ohio
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The regulator has little to do with output and is the simplest part to change.
It's the rest of the charging system that needs replacing and upgrading. Wires, ammeter, fuse links and likely even belt and pulley arrangements like going to double belts.
What's your need for power?
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: TJP]
#3083978
10/07/22 08:41 AM
10/07/22 08:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,004 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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I Win
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U.S.S.A.
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The regulator has little to do with output and is the simplest part to change.
It's the rest of the charging system that needs replacing and upgrading. Wires, ammeter, fuse links and likely even belt and pulley arrangements like going to double belts.
X3 , you put that big an alternator in a car with stock wiring and you're going to smoke the wiring harness if the system asks for anything over wha tthe stock system is rated for , and even then you're on borrowed time.
running up my post count some more .
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: TJP]
#3084067
10/07/22 01:41 PM
10/07/22 01:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,022 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
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master
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Tulsa OK
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I use a GM CS130 alternator, they are 105amp internally regulated. I wire mine with a charge light and a sense wire. The only factory wiring on my car is lights and wipers though.
I run EFI, 4000CFM fan, electric water pump, electric fuel pumps etc.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: Bad340fish]
#3084111
10/07/22 05:53 PM
10/07/22 05:53 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807 ohio
ruderunner
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master
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ohio
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If those high draw items are powered directly off the alternator, you might get away with not upgrading the rest of the wiring. Better safe than sorry though.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: ruderunner]
#3084118
10/07/22 06:32 PM
10/07/22 06:32 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,240 nowhere
Sniper
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master
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If those high draw items are powered directly off the alternator, you might get away with not upgrading the rest of the wiring. Better safe than sorry though. What else needs upgraded? A load will only draw as much as it needs. For example, the tail lights are not going to take any more current than they did with the original alternator. What ever additional high current loads that may be added would need appropriate sized wiring to handle those loads and some thought as to where to feed them from, but nothing stock is, assuming a good condition harness. When I updated my 51 Plymouth to a 78A 12v alternator I used the battery side connection of the fender mounted starter solenoid as the tie point to feed my electric fan relays (24A draw on high) and to tie the output of the alternator to. The aftermarket gauge kit I am running has no ammeter so I didn't have to concern myself with that. The EFI feed comes from there too. The rest of the wiring harness is a generic 12v spec 21 circuit harness. When I get around to adding AC I will feed that relay from the same point.
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: RBSat66]
#3084200
10/08/22 03:03 AM
10/08/22 03:03 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157
Bend,OR USA
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I bought and used a Power master 100 Amp single wire alternator on my last street and drag race car, I ran an 8-gauge wire straight from the alternator to the positive post on the battery and added a volt gauge from the ignition side from the stock fuse box. I disconnected and didn't use any part of the original charging circuit, I did have to back feed from the battery back to the ignition switch to make the new alternator work in that 1971 Duster As already mentioned, you can't safely run a lot more current, 80 Amps+, amperage, through the early low amperage stock factory wiring IHThs Mopar cars in 1969 had a bad reputation on the entire electrical system, many caught on fire and burnt to the ground due to the issues in the wiring
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 10/08/22 04:19 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: Sniper]
#3084220
10/08/22 07:52 AM
10/08/22 07:52 AM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807
ohio
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If those high draw items are powered directly off the alternator, you might get away with not upgrading the rest of the wiring. Better safe than sorry though. What else needs upgraded? A load will only draw as much as it needs. For example, the tail lights are not going to take any more current than they did with the original alternator. What ever additional high current loads that may be added would need appropriate sized wiring to handle those loads and some thought as to where to feed them from, but nothing stock is, assuming a good condition harness. When I updated my 51 Plymouth to a 78A 12v alternator I used the battery side connection of the fender mounted starter solenoid as the tie point to feed my electric fan relays (24A draw on high) and to tie the output of the alternator to. The aftermarket gauge kit I am running has no ammeter so I didn't have to concern myself with that. The EFI feed comes from there too. The rest of the wiring harness is a generic 12v spec 21 circuit harness. When I get around to adding AC I will feed that relay from the same point. As noted where you take the load from is important. But let's say something goes wrong with the battery, the alternator will power through the original wiring until it melts. Big problem. Especially with known weak points like the bulkhead connector. I've seen too many rolling fire hazards, usually related to stereo systems.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: ruderunner]
#3084259
10/08/22 10:53 AM
10/08/22 10:53 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,240 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,240
nowhere
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If those high draw items are powered directly off the alternator, you might get away with not upgrading the rest of the wiring. Better safe than sorry though. What else needs upgraded? A load will only draw as much as it needs. For example, the tail lights are not going to take any more current than they did with the original alternator. What ever additional high current loads that may be added would need appropriate sized wiring to handle those loads and some thought as to where to feed them from, but nothing stock is, assuming a good condition harness. When I updated my 51 Plymouth to a 78A 12v alternator I used the battery side connection of the fender mounted starter solenoid as the tie point to feed my electric fan relays (24A draw on high) and to tie the output of the alternator to. The aftermarket gauge kit I am running has no ammeter so I didn't have to concern myself with that. The EFI feed comes from there too. The rest of the wiring harness is a generic 12v spec 21 circuit harness. When I get around to adding AC I will feed that relay from the same point. As noted where you take the load from is important. But let's say something goes wrong with the battery, the alternator will power through the original wiring until it melts. Big problem. Especially with known weak points like the bulkhead connector. I've seen too many rolling fire hazards, usually related to stereo systems. I forgot to mention the part where I upgraded the feed from the alternator output to the battery. It's rated to handle the full output of the alternator, actually I upsized one size, belt and suspenders. Every high load draw is also protected by fusible links.
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: moparx]
#3084383
10/08/22 06:04 PM
10/08/22 06:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807 ohio
ruderunner
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master
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ohio
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That's what we're discussing. Taking the add on high draw stuff from the alternator and essentially bypassing the stock wiring. I still contend it's a good idea to upgrade the original wiring to handle the potential of carrying the full output of the alternator.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3084385
10/08/22 06:12 PM
10/08/22 06:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,855 Central Florida
larrymopar360
Stud Muffin
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Stud Muffin
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,855
Central Florida
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I bought and used a Power master 100 Amp single wire alternator on my last street and drag race car, I ran an 8-gauge wire straight from the alternator to the positive post on the battery and added a volt gauge from the ignition side from the stock fuse box. I disconnected and didn't use any part of the original charging circuit, I did have to back feed from the battery back to the ignition switch to make the new alternator work in that 1971 Duster As already mentioned, you can't safely run a lot more current, 80 Amps+, amperage, through the early low amperage stock factory wiring IHThs Mopar cars in 1969 had a bad reputation on the entire electrical system, many caught on fire and burnt to the ground due to the issues in the wiring I agree with Cab. Upgrade wiring too, and Power Master has some nice quality stuff. Just look at the 70's Dodge trucks to realize the problems with wiring and bulkheads, etc.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Internal Regulated Alternator
[Re: RBSat66]
#3086968
10/17/22 08:21 PM
10/17/22 08:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,717 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,717
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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My amp guage is reads low at idle even when only supplyingpower just for fuelpump and motor. it gets worse as headlights or heat motor is used. it will go back up to charge when at about 1500 rpms. just concerned. Mopar alternators are notoriously weak at low rpm. Even worse If you have an under drive pulley.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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