Re: Painting wheels
[Re: hemienvy]
#3074353
09/05/22 12:31 AM
09/05/22 12:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499 N.E. OHIO, USA
A12
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499
N.E. OHIO, USA
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Sandblast wheels and blow dry with air nozzle, shouldn't need to degrease. I would still use a "prep" to get rid of the fine dust/grit from the sand blasting and compressed air is not always free of contaminates from rust (condensation/humidity) or even oil in the compressor tank. If your compressor has a water separator or is set up properly to spray paint then that would take care of clean, dry air but still the dust and grit from sand blasting will still be there DAMHIK. I would prep them just the same way as if you were painting a body panel.......just me though.
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Re: Painting wheels
[Re: topside]
#3074636
09/05/22 11:31 PM
09/05/22 11:31 PM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,653 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,653
Cut and Shoot, TX
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The manufacturer of the 2K (for 2 komponent?) paints is in Germany, according to the label, even though Eastwood pretends they developed and make the paint. Same stuff is also sold by Eastwood through Amazon with less selections than Eastwood direct, and might be slightly cheaper from Amazon if buying only one can. I have used the 2K primers, top coats, and clear coats, and I had some difficulty getting recommendations for drying times and recoat times out of Eastwood, because they don't make it easy to get data sheets. Nevertheless, try Eastwood's web site for data sheets or maybe call them.
In 2018 I bought this same German 2K paint from another seller, automotivetouchup.com, but it appears that Eastwood might now be the exclusive USA distributor. Automotivetouchup.com recommended using the 2K clear coat over 1K color coat, and I did that with excellent results. I touched up a car's paint in order to sell it, so I can't say how well the paint ages.
Out of 10 cans from Eastwood, one 2K epoxy primer ran out of propellant while only 1/3 used, and Eastwood sent me another at no charge. Figure about $31 (2021) including shipping per can and "10 - 16 sq ft" per can. I used 5 cans or $155 on a K-frame and the same on an axle housing. The 5-can, 5-coat system was two 2K epoxy primer coats, one coat of 2K high-build urethane primer to fill pits, and two 2K top coats. Slightly less than 5 cans were needed for each part, so I did have a small steel shop table for the leftovers. See photos for disappeared rust pits through selectively sanding the high-build back down to epoxy primer.
You can use the Google Enhanced Search at the top of this page to find other posts on 2K paint. There is a You Tube video on painting a car frame with 2K.
Even though I have a 60" blast cabinet, rather than blasting my wheels (or K-frame or axle housing), I used Evapo-Rust and paint stripper, followed by cleaning with paint thinner, then brushed on phosphoric acid, followed again by cleaning with paint thinner. You can delay painting a long time if need be - no rust should show up later due to the thinned phosphoric acid coating, but if some does, simply hand scrub it off with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad dipped in phosphoric acid. Any rust will be totally removed, and the part is re-coated with phosphoric acid.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Painting wheels
[Re: hemienvy]
#3165275
08/03/23 10:28 AM
08/03/23 10:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,840 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,840
S.E. Michigan
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The questions are all answered in the technical data sheets for the products purchased. Google search criteria "spraymax technical data sheet" Example: Scroll down and look for "technical information sheets" https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/Repeat same process for all products. Read and understand the material before jumping in. They seem aware their products are geared towards non-professionals so the data sheets are better written and more complete than average. Do not screw around with safety using any of the 2k products: Wear a real respirator approved for organic vapor, not just a dust mask. Gloves are a good idea as well. Your overall plan sounds good but as others state, sand tends to get lodged between the center and the rim. Might want to at least pick it out. Not every one agrees but I spray nothing on bare metal without wax and grease remover. If solvent borne wait 1/2 hour or more for evap. If Waterborne or something to like Sprayway glass cleaner, a few minutes after wipe off is usually adequate. *lengthen the time for high humidity conditions I'd also want a tack cloth........Always tack off before clear, at a bare minimum, to try to avoid visible chunks below the clear. Once something is buried under the clear, it's not going anywhere.... Not everyone would agree.....
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