Good evening all. New member / New to Mopar (only had the car 3 years ) and it's my fist trans teardown. Trans has less than 5k on it was built by a reputable shop in April of 20. I had pressure switches controlling the OD ,LU was disconnected . About 3 weeks ago on the highway I had the car come in and out of OD very rapidly , it puked fluid out the vent and trans overheated pinned over 250. After it cooled down I limped home and dropped the pan and found very little bit of metal ( I know no metal is good to see) . I put fresh fluid and filter and after a couple days noticed it wasn't dropping down to 1 at at stop light. It would start in 1 after reverse or manual placed there . Anyways I figured it was time to tear into it.
Torque convertor hub was worn at the index ( no other place) . Convertor was rebuilt. Cooler was flushed .Front clutches were worn to. 063(ish) and steels showed some heat . Other than that I didn't see anything obvious. Bands looked excellent as did all other frictions and steels. I replaced the worn steels and clutches all the seals and a bearing that I damaged during teardown. I watched the TransmissionBench videos and went step by step with him.
During assembly I did notice , #6 checkball had been previously removed and there is a blocking rod in accumulator. Nothing else jumped out at me.
Put it back together and it feels like it's not shifting as firm. It does downshift properly though . I only ran it about 10 miles as a shakedown Today I hooked up guages and I'm not liking what I'm seeing although I don't really know where to go from here.
Accumulator shows 0-4psi . I never get over 4psi .
In D .Governor starts at 0 climbs to 25(car shifts and needle jerks ) guage climbs as high as 75 but stops even though speed increas past
In M1.Rear servo servo shows 70 at idle and stays steady . With Gov climbing with speed.
I'm trying to attach the test page I'm using as reference.

How do you have the TV cable setup ? I'm not a fan of blocking the accumulator in a street car , my 2000 ram 2500 cummins had that done and the shift ... 1-2 I think it was ... would rattle your fillings it was so harsh , granted it has a billet accumulator piston with a double seal ring arrangement, I took out the blocker and put the spring back.

I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "Torque convertor hub was worn at the index"

Is it a lockup convertor and you just don't use lockup ? What is the vehicle this is in ?

Thanks for the reply.
TV cable is hooked is adjusted to full swing towards the rear of the car at full throttle. Maybe there is 1/8" more travel available.

The blocker was there from when it was put together by previous owner and I always liked the way it shifted so I just tried to put everything back the way I found it. It has spring as well although I guess it's really not doing much with the blocker in there
It is a very firm 1-2 shift for sure.

I'll see if I can attach pic of the wear on the hub index. The convertor was rebuilt with the previous build in April of 20

It is a lockup convertor & trans I just don't use lockup and the car is in overdrive less than 5% of the time anyways. It's a 71 Fury.

Oh I forgot to add. In my initial teardown i found exposed wires going to solenoid. It's possible that was why it came inn and out of od rapidly.

In what gear? There is no pressure at the accumulator in Park/Neutral. If reading is in gear, something's amiss.

Thanks for the reply.. P,R,N, D 123 OR M1 . I haven't seen the needle fluctuate at all. I swapped guages just to make sure it wasn't the guage. I was hoping it was due to the blocker rod but I'm now guessing that's not the case. I just ordered some items to make a vacuum test bench for the valve body. I think that's my next move. 🤷‍♂️.

You're saying the 0-4 psi accumulator reading is in all gears? If it's in all gears, you probably don't have the gauge hooked to the accumulator test port which is #3 or something is blocking the port.

Thank you again for the reply. I'll double check but I swapped gauges just to make sure. And I lowered the trans off the trans mount so I could get in there better on the #3 port and get better eyes on the accumulator port . I actually stuck a zip tie into the port hole too make sure it was open 🤷‍♂️.
When I get back into the garage I'll triple check . Hopefully it's just something stupid I did.

A brass nipple, a rubber hose and one hose clamp is asking for trouble at transmission pressures my .

That converter hub and pump gear look destroyed to me. The ears on the gear are nearly 75% gone. They should be a much tighter fit on the converter. But the notches on the converter hub are hammered out too.

What's the rest of the pump look like?

Thanks . I didn't measure the actual pump pins but they looked alright and they seemed to fit well in the new convertor hub. Pump clearance was good and stator didn't look terrible there was a nick but couldn't catch your nail on it.

Thanks . That's what I came up with when the original gauge which has high pressure hose failed to move on the accumulator. 🤷‍♂️ I had a buddy watching for leaks too.

I was mistaken in my post . I went back in my pictures the blocker rod was actually in 3-4 accumulator .

Thanks everyone for replys. I did a pressure test ( https://youtu.be/4LiNpfoTNBs ) and compared to another video I found online of a 47Re ( https://youtu.be/VwE64kuqx1Q ) . I don't think they are too different in that reguard. Comparing the videos I think my pressure test is satisfactory but what do I know ? I still haven't gotten into the valve body yet.

Refer to the last page of the pressure test it's easier to read and see what you have.

https://trucktransdiag.com/downloads/technical-data-for-dodge-transmissions.pdf

Thank you.