Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: Stanton]
#3060237
07/18/22 01:56 PM
07/18/22 01:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,094 A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,094
A Banana Republic near you.
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If it's a car application rear the axles should just pull out .
How far were the perches moved , I thought you moved your springs inboard ?
I'd think you would want to open and clean something like this where your bought it with a possibly questionable past ?
running up my post count some more .
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Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: Stanton]
#3060254
07/18/22 02:43 PM
07/18/22 02:43 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,303 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,303
Bend,OR USA
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Bought a Dana while on the Carlisle trip.
I want to install longer wheel studs and I doubt they can be installed without pulling the axles so ... are the axles only held in by the bearing retainers or does the rear cover have to come off for some reason?
Springs have been moved inboard so I also need to remove the spring perches and install new ones. Do I have to pretty much gut the rear end or can I just weld them on as is? The rear has no fluid in it but there is probably residue on the insides of the tubes. Dana 23,44, 52 or 60 series? If a 60 the axles should slide out, you may need to pry on them at first to make them move depending on where it was from and what condition the outer bearings are in
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: NANKET]
#3060309
07/18/22 06:29 PM
07/18/22 06:29 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,911 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
OP
Don't question me!
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OP
Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,911
Ontario, Canada
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The service manual is one thing, experience is another. And there were two questions and I doubt the service manual covers welding on new perches. But I'm thick-skinned, I can take a bit of sarcasm.
So thanks to those who provided helpful replies.
The rear end is a '69 B-body unit. Apparently low milage and in very nice condition and complete including drums and cables. Originally 4.10's but now 3.54's, The cover would definitely come off eventually but I'm no rear end expert so unless the gears are chipped to hell I wouldn't know what to look for. I'd rather avoid a complete teardown for the sake of welding on a couple of perches but I'm pretty sure the axles need to be pulled to swap the studs. In fact, I just looked and they are the original RH and LH threads !!!
Last edited by Stanton; 07/18/22 06:36 PM.
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Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: Stanton]
#3060353
07/18/22 08:09 PM
07/18/22 08:09 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,245 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,245
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Not knowing what kind of dana it was and if it was OEM auto or a truck rear or one that had been moneyed with, I went with the safe response. Axles are pretty straight forward and easy. When you remove the carrier/differential/limited slip unit it can get complex. Nothing you mentioned would be a cause to remove more than the axles. There may be those who may say it is OK to weld the tubes with the axles in, I don't. No specific reason why but it seems right to take them out when welding. As for the inside when you remove the cover. As you said chipped gears or rust are the only things you can really see. Everything else except up down movement of the pinion would be best measured with a dial indicator. If you haven't removed the cover I suggest you do that before you start. If the gears are rusted or chipped then I would send it out to be worked on by somebody like Dr Diff. and have the perches fixed at the same time. There are a lot of specialty tools like case spreaders and pinion depth gauges that are necessary to rebuild many rear ends and not worth the cost for only 1 rear end. IMHO. When you tack or weld your perches make sure the angle of the perch to the pinion is correct or it reeks havoc with the driveshaft angles. Congrats on the score.
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Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: Stanton]
#3060410
07/18/22 10:16 PM
07/18/22 10:16 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,245 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,245
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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For longer than stock studs you may have to pull the axle but for stock length studs you can replace them without pulling the axle. The longer studs may not clear the brake backing plate when maneuvering them in from the back of the flange. There are tools to press in and remove studs. This one is fancy https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4295-Wheel-Stud-Service/dp/B009B2M3YOMost are just a thrust bearing like this. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24235-Truck-Wheel-Installer/dp/B01MRWOWJZI have never used them. I draw mine in with a lug nut or hard Grade 8 Nut and a stack of greased washers. Warshers here in the south. I stack a few greased washers over the stud and place the flat side of the lug nut against the washers. I tighten until I feel a definite stop as the mushroom head seats against the back of the flange. I don't use an impact wrench (less strain on the threads and I can feel the stud seating ) and I make sure the washers at the bottom of the stack have a hole large enough to clear any shoulder on the stud. Works like a charm.
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Re: Dana ???'s
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3060592
07/19/22 03:00 PM
07/19/22 03:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,760 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,760
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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The incorrect oversize studs are actually for Fords but some bean counter decided not to make 2 different sizes that were "only" .005 different. That guy should have been fired. Any studs that say they fit Ford and Mopar is going to be wrong.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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