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Dana ???'s #3060143
07/18/22 10:17 AM
07/18/22 10:17 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,360
Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline OP
Don't question me!
Stanton  Offline OP
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Ontario, Canada
Bought a Dana while on the Carlisle trip.

I want to install longer wheel studs and I doubt they can be installed without pulling the axles so ... are the axles only held in by the bearing retainers or does the rear cover have to come off for some reason?

Springs have been moved inboard so I also need to remove the spring perches and install new ones. Do I have to pretty much gut the rear end or can I just weld them on as is? The rear has no fluid in it but there is probably residue on the insides of the tubes.

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060149
07/18/22 10:27 AM
07/18/22 10:27 AM
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IMGTX Offline
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If the axle has adjustable retainers you can pull the retainer flanges and the axles come out with them.

Easy test is to remove the 5 nuts holding the retainer/brake drum backing plate to the housing, if the axle come out you are ok.

If not:

1. Pull the rear cover.
2. Remove the small bolt holding the large pin going through the carrier.
3. Pull out the large pin and push the axles towards the center.
4. Remove the large c clips on the end of the axles
5. If you haven't already removed the 5 nuts per side on the retainer flanges, remove them.
6. Pull the axles.

For the spring perches I grind the old ones off carefully and position the new ones paying close attention to the angle relative to the pinion. I tack them on and take them to a better welder than I am. LOL
I pull the axles and the cover but not the center carrier. Probably not necessary but makes me feel like I did something. Others may have better ideas.

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060237
07/18/22 12:56 PM
07/18/22 12:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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If it's a car application rear the axles should just pull out .

How far were the perches moved , I thought you moved your springs inboard ?

I'd think you would want to open and clean something like this where your bought it with a possibly questionable past ?


running up my post count some more .
Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060254
07/18/22 01:43 PM
07/18/22 01:43 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 40,860
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Originally Posted by Stanton
Bought a Dana while on the Carlisle trip.

I want to install longer wheel studs and I doubt they can be installed without pulling the axles so ... are the axles only held in by the bearing retainers or does the rear cover have to come off for some reason?

Springs have been moved inboard so I also need to remove the spring perches and install new ones. Do I have to pretty much gut the rear end or can I just weld them on as is? The rear has no fluid in it but there is probably residue on the insides of the tubes.

Dana 23,44, 52 or 60 series?
If a 60 the axles should slide out, you may need to pry on them at first to make them move depending on where it was from and what condition the outer bearings are in scope


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Cab_Burge] #3060299
07/18/22 04:57 PM
07/18/22 04:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
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northwest USA
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NANKET Offline
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Does anyone read the service manual?

No C-clips in a mopar Dana 60, they are not toys they are serious!

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: NANKET] #3060309
07/18/22 05:29 PM
07/18/22 05:29 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,360
Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline OP
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Stanton  Offline OP
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The service manual is one thing, experience is another. And there were two questions and I doubt the service manual covers welding on new perches. But I'm thick-skinned, I can take a bit of sarcasm.

So thanks to those who provided helpful replies.

The rear end is a '69 B-body unit. Apparently low milage and in very nice condition and complete including drums and cables. Originally 4.10's but now 3.54's, The cover would definitely come off eventually but I'm no rear end expert so unless the gears are chipped to hell I wouldn't know what to look for. I'd rather avoid a complete teardown for the sake of welding on a couple of perches but I'm pretty sure the axles need to be pulled to swap the studs. In fact, I just looked and they are the original RH and LH threads !!!

Last edited by Stanton; 07/18/22 05:36 PM.
Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060353
07/18/22 07:09 PM
07/18/22 07:09 PM
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IMGTX Offline
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Not knowing what kind of dana it was and if it was OEM auto or a truck rear or one that had been moneyed with, I went with the safe response.

Axles are pretty straight forward and easy. When you remove the carrier/differential/limited slip unit it can get complex. Nothing you mentioned would be a cause to remove more than the axles. There may be those who may say it is OK to weld the tubes with the axles in, I don't. No specific reason why but it seems right to take them out when welding.

As for the inside when you remove the cover. As you said chipped gears or rust are the only things you can really see. Everything else except up down movement of the pinion would be best measured with a dial indicator.

If you haven't removed the cover I suggest you do that before you start. If the gears are rusted or chipped then I would send it out to be worked on by somebody like Dr Diff. and have the perches fixed at the same time. There are a lot of specialty tools like case spreaders and pinion depth gauges that are necessary to rebuild many rear ends and not worth the cost for only 1 rear end. IMHO.

When you tack or weld your perches make sure the angle of the perch to the pinion is correct or it reeks havoc with the driveshaft angles.

Congrats on the score. up

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: IMGTX] #3060372
07/18/22 07:38 PM
07/18/22 07:38 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,360
Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline OP
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Stanton  Offline OP
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The only concern I have welding on the new perches is any lube residue catching fire. Not that it would be serious, worst case would be a lot of smoke

The main reason to remove the axles is to swap the studs. I'm going to check with a mechanic buddy to see if they have any trick to installing new studs - they must run across broken studs now and then and may have a method of pulling them in without yanking the axles. Although I think that would be quite a strain on any stud !

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060410
07/18/22 09:16 PM
07/18/22 09:16 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11,649
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX Offline
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For longer than stock studs you may have to pull the axle but for stock length studs you can replace them without pulling the axle. The longer studs may not clear the brake backing plate when maneuvering them in from the back of the flange.


There are tools to press in and remove studs.

This one is fancy
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4295-Wheel-Stud-Service/dp/B009B2M3YO

Most are just a thrust bearing like this.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24235-Truck-Wheel-Installer/dp/B01MRWOWJZ


I have never used them. I draw mine in with a lug nut or hard Grade 8 Nut and a stack of greased washers. Warshers here in the south.

I stack a few greased washers over the stud and place the flat side of the lug nut against the washers.

I tighten until I feel a definite stop as the mushroom head seats against the back of the flange.

I don't use an impact wrench (less strain on the threads and I can feel the stud seating ) and I make sure the washers at the bottom of the stack have a hole large enough to clear any shoulder on the stud.

Works like a charm.




Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060586
07/19/22 01:34 PM
07/19/22 01:34 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Make sure you have the proper long studs before starting, the fronts are a different diameter than the rears, some of the aftermarket studs are to large on the splines by about .005+ rant puke scope


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Cab_Burge] #3060592
07/19/22 02:00 PM
07/19/22 02:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda Offline
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Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Make sure you have the proper long studs before starting, the fronts are a different diameter than the rears, some of the aftermarket studs are to large on the splines by about .005+ rant puke scope

The incorrect oversize studs are actually for Fords but some bean counter decided not to make 2 different sizes that were "only" .005 different. That guy should have been fired.
Any studs that say they fit Ford and Mopar is going to be wrong.


In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Cab_Burge] #3060593
07/19/22 02:04 PM
07/19/22 02:04 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,360
Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline OP
Don't question me!
Stanton  Offline OP
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Ontario, Canada
Since this isn't going to see regular track use, just wondering if I really need the longer studs. The wheels will be thicker but the shoulder on the nuts go into the wheel. And I'd prefer not to use an open ended nut. I do have to swap out the left-hand threaded studs regardless but could probably do that without pulling the axles.

Re: Dana ???'s [Re: Stanton] #3060637
07/19/22 04:24 PM
07/19/22 04:24 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11,649
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX Offline
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Lots of lug nut options work with standard lugs so standard lugs should be fine.

This style is for aluminum rims and can be bought with shanks as long as 2"

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