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Carb series ? help #3059626
07/16/22 10:15 AM
07/16/22 10:15 AM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Well as usual for me I have another issue that most don't run up against. My BB will stall at idle after driving a few miles.(not all the time and idle RPM makes no difference) Cleaned out no visible dirt in the carb..all adjustments are good but found that when spraying the throttle shaft with cleaner, the idle will drop (actually sounds better) then goes back to set speed. Also the shaft was loose. Issue is the carb is VERY old and I see Holley stamped on the front but there are no numbers anywhere on it like "4510"..or date stamps. Can anyone, by looking, identify the series it is so I can order a new throttle shaft. Thanks in advance to all. Thanks MOPARTS

IM000492.JPGIM000491.JPGIM000490.JPG
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059636
07/16/22 11:23 AM
07/16/22 11:23 AM
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Did this problem just start on an existing combination?
Is it an auto or stick?
If an auto have you tried slipping it into neutral when coming to a stop
Another issue that will commonly cause this is the mechanical advance being set too loose (IE: coming in at or just of idle)

When you say RPM makes no difference does that mean it will die even at 1500 RPM?
Might also have a stiffened power valve which they will do over time.
A bit a leakage around the throttle shafts is normal (to a point). The hsafts normally don't wear but rather the baseplate itself.

I would start by verifying the mechanical advance is not coming in to soon. might also want to check the vacuum advance as well if your running it twocents beer

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059667
07/16/22 01:12 PM
07/16/22 01:12 PM
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looks like an early custom made, ut the choke tower off and other mods,.
That looks like a early double pumper body shruggy
Measure the throttle bores and plates and post those on here so maybe SOMEONE can look them up in Holley on line spec charts work scope up

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 07/16/22 01:13 PM.

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Re: Carb series ? help [Re: TJP] #3059679
07/16/22 02:29 PM
07/16/22 02:29 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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It's intermittent as it runs down the road fine...no change in performance..IF you rev the motor at a light a bit constantly, it wont't stall. 8 ot of 10 times it quits without warning..other 20% it seems to load up and then die. It does not give any problems ever when warming up. Only after running a medium to large distance and then quits after like idling down to find a parking space or waiting at a light. Temp gauge is always around 185 to 190 when it stalls. And again, it is not every time....just always at a bad time...lol
it's definetely a holley dual feed double pump of some model series as I need to know what series it is because I'll either get a new base plate or buy a new carb

It's an automatic and once had it idling at 1000 rpm and it died. Reving in neutral and it won't die.

Mechanical advance.

Problem just started a few weeks ago

Last edited by terzmo; 07/16/22 02:35 PM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059692
07/16/22 03:58 PM
07/16/22 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by terzmo
It's intermittent as it runs down the road fine...no change in performance..IF you rev the motor at a light a bit constantly, it wont't stall. 8 ot of 10 times it quits without warning..other 20% it seems to load up and then die. It does not give any problems ever when warming up. Only after running a medium to large distance and then quits after like idling down to find a parking space or waiting at a light. Temp gauge is always around 185 to 190 when it stalls. And again, it is not every time....just always at a bad time...lol
it's definetely a holley dual feed double pump of some model series as I need to know what series it is because I'll either get a new base plate or buy a new carb

It's an automatic and once had it idling at 1000 rpm and it died. Reving in neutral and it won't die.

Mechanical advance.

Problem just started a few weeks ago
Have you cleaned up the advance weights? Maybe they sticking just enough to effect low engine speed. Timing could be dropping too much in gear. It looks like an old 4150. Start the engine a blow some air thru the idle bleeds, see if that helps it also. Also sounds like a vacuum leak at base of carb. Might be causing to go lean at idle after it warms up.


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Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059698
07/16/22 04:25 PM
07/16/22 04:25 PM
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How do you get it home? How do you get it restarted?

Vapor lock?

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: BSB67] #3059699
07/16/22 04:41 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Drive it home starts right up...Don't believe a vapor lock issue.
Blew air throughout the entire carb..including bleders. Ran gumout directly while running...disassembled carb next day and cleaned...aired...was no visible dirt
evidence of a leak at throttle shaft as with spraying there the idle gets lower but doesn't stall. BUT.. one person said some leakage is normal there...but what is the normal amount of "some" lol. I'm going to change the entire base plate assembly Monday. A friend has a spare "parts" carb. I bought the carb years ago from a friend and it's been fine until now. My friend bought it new in 1995 so I guess an issue is to be expected after 27 years.

Last edited by terzmo; 07/16/22 04:47 PM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059710
07/16/22 05:43 PM
07/16/22 05:43 PM
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Possible Ign.problem coil heating up ?

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: 71GTX471] #3059726
07/16/22 07:04 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Would not start up so easy after stalling I think..plus it's not all the time and if it stutters before stalling and I throttle up...it won't stall

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: 71GTX471] #3059744
07/16/22 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 71GTX471
Possible Ign.problem coil heating up ?

Or a flaky ballast? One on its way out can cause your exact symptom. A cheap try up
Have you checked your Voltages ? You may have a voltage drop that is wreaking havoc on the ignition by not providing adequate V at idle. Increasing the RPM bumps the available V up and avoids the stalling whistling

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: TJP] #3059763
07/16/22 10:21 PM
07/16/22 10:21 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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had it at 1000 rpm in drive and it was 1300 in park...still stalled

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: Cab_Burge] #3059779
07/17/22 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
looks like an early custom made, ut the choke tower off and other mods,.
That looks like a early double pumper body shruggy
Measure the throttle bores and plates and post those on here so maybe SOMEONE can look them up in Holley on line spec charts work scope up



I agree on what it looks like.

What ignition system? Sounds like when an ecu has a bad ground. Gets worse when hot. Something like a petronix will get wonky when it’s hot wire sees lower voltage when under hood temps go up. Looks like you don’t have a voltage reg hooked up. Running a one wire? Is it charging good at low rpm?


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Re: Carb series ? help [Re: SomeCarGuy] #3059855
07/17/22 07:22 AM
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terzmo Offline OP
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electronic orange box ignition. Internal voltage reg in alternator..(108 amp) Charges normally Haven't seen any carbs of this type with a choke tower

Last edited by terzmo; 07/17/22 07:24 AM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059871
07/17/22 10:24 AM
07/17/22 10:24 AM
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look for a list #,That will tell you what carb it is, The throttle shaft is steel and the body is cast aluminum so if anything is work it will be the body not thge shaft. You will have to have it machined for bushings to fix it.
[Linked Image]

Not sure where they put them on the larger carbs but the list below might help some.

https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf

Last edited by Moparite; 07/17/22 10:31 AM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3059900
07/17/22 12:23 PM
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Check your voltage at the battery terminal on the alt. and battery POST not cable Should be within .2-.5 V at worst.
Then check V going into the ballast at idle. Should be about the same as the battery and Alt.

You can also see if it V increases with RPM.

try a ballast. They are cheap and can cause these symptoms when getting ready to fail

Also as SCG said VERIFY the ground on the ECU. Ideally it should be grounded directly to bare metal on the ECU & motor
beer

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: TJP] #3060270
07/18/22 03:43 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Just for grins I ground all the paint off both sides of the box and ground off the paint on the fender. Also installed a new ballast resistor. AND of couse it's raining out so I have to wait for it to stop to do a check ride. Before doing all that I did check continuity of the box to ground and it was a direct short.

Last edited by terzmo; 07/18/22 03:44 PM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3060383
07/18/22 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by terzmo
Just for grins I ground all the paint off both sides of the box and ground off the paint on the fender. Also installed a new ballast resistor. AND of course it's raining out so I have to wait for it to stop to do a check ride. Before doing all that I did check continuity of the box to ground and it was a direct short.


up just an FYI: you can measure 0 ohms resistance but the connections ability to handle Current is another thing all together.

Grounds can also sometimes be intermittent and a challenge to identify. Increasing the engines RPM may raise the alternators V and current (I) output enough to mask a bad connection or ground. A small wire braid ground strap between the motor and control box is ideal.
Also I have seen more than one ballast that is on it's way out cause issues like your experiencing. The resistor is breaking down internally resulting in the issue occurring. Again raising the RPM may provide enough current to "bridge" the internal resistance. Measuring them when cold may show good Ohms wise, but hot may be another reading wink keep us posted beer

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: TJP] #3060469
07/19/22 07:53 AM
07/19/22 07:53 AM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Box is grounded for sure...new resistor.....same result....more of a fuel issue I believe as it started to stall and I caught it twice by playing with the gas peddle. Seems to be loading up at idle...today I am changing the base plate as there is a leak there that noticeably affected idle. To be continued...looking at throttle shaft as that a week or so ago I noticed the shaft was very loose and tapped it beck into place..the issue of stalling was before and after tapping the shaft back in. Pretty solid but I sprayed the shaft with gumout and the idle dropped noticeably and then came back up as the liquid vaporized.

Last edited by terzmo; 07/19/22 07:56 AM.
Re: Carb series ? help [Re: terzmo] #3060535
07/19/22 12:08 PM
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Bummer, problems like this can be challenging to diagnose frown I'm assuming you are getting good response from the mixture screws when adjusting them ? if so that would indicate the idle circuit is doing it's job and functioning as well as compensating for the suspected shaft leak.

I just had another thought When idling, have you tried SLOWLY restricting the air into primary side of the carb? Think of very slowly closing a door. IF you get to a point in which the idle picks up / smooths out it indicates a small vacuum leak that is otherwise not noticeable,
i had one years ago that drove me nuts for a quite a bit, I finally just checked & tightened the intake bolts,
MAGICALLY all was well wink
Keep us posted

Re: Carb series ? help [Re: TJP] #3060627
07/19/22 04:46 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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the throttle shaft was loose when getting to the shop. 23 mile run. Took the carb off and put a race base plate on it (only thing available) and the carb ran at 2000rpm and stalled at 1800. definetely not good. looked at the original base after about an hour and the throttle shaft was solid as concrete. Explains why it stalls after getting to temp. The race base wouldn't work so I have the original back on to get home. Looking to get a new carb as why throw money into parts for a 27 year old carb that has seen better days

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