Hi Everyone!

Just in case the title isn't clear enough: I'm talking about the steel plate that sits in the machined block oil-filter attachment area. Didn't want to call that an "adapter plate", but perhaps it is? lol

Anyways. I've got a '74 360 block here, the OEM plate has 4 holes in it that are 0.240" in diameter. My '78 block had a plate with at least 6 holes (if I remember correctly, but it's been nearly 15 yrs since I stripped that motor down and replaced with a 90 deg. adapter, so I do not remember, nor do I actually have that old plate).

Further on, the WIX filter I use (51068) has 6 holes that are 0.305" in diameter, so the difference to me implies a serious mismatch in terms of flow capacity.

I'm curious, what (if anything) has anyone done to remedy? Have you simply drilled the factory plate? Has anyone moved to an aftermarket plate?

Here is a quick SummitRacing plate I found => 120117, maybe an option?

Thanks!

You can drill it but the total size of those holes does not need to be much bigger than the center hole of the fitting that holds it to the block. Some block fittings have a 3/8 square hole in the center others use a large socket and hove a round hole, the socket style flow better, as do the adapters with more holes. A little R2 x 3.1416 math will let you figure it out.

I've added, drilled, four more holes into them for better flow

That allows the oil filter to become the limiting factor on oil flow on that engine.
On the next race SB I build will get a remote oil filter adapter for the big NASCAR type race filters, I'll drill and tap the block for larger AN type fittings(O ring to AN male) and increase the flow to the larger oil filter

A while back engine masters did an episode on oil filters, They tested Wix,Fram,K&N and a few others. K&N gold was the best for flow and particulate filtration. I would have liked to see a test using different weight oils and also test the Royal Purple filter(have read good things about it). If flow is your main concern a remote duel filter is what you want. As mentioned flow is limited to the diameter of the threaded nipple. I also assume you are using a high output pump(these where tested also). Another trick is to use a thicker spring or a washer to bring up the psi output of a pump.

Alright...thanks you guys!

I'm most likely just going to drill a couple more holes in the '74 plate (checked in the parts book, that's how Mopar references it => 'PLATE, Oil Filter Adapter', part# 2402103). I will look to even that out with the surface area of the adapter ('ADAPTER, Oil Filter to Cylinder Block', part# 3671602, we are talking the threaded stud-like piece that screws into the block casting and retains the plate).

4406bbl: got you on that calc, that's precisely what I used in my Carter TQ jet/rod compare spreadsheet as well.

Cab_Burge: you know, I was thinking of doing a remote filter setup, it just woudl be so much more handy...but at this point in time I'm just looking to bolt it all back up and actually get the car back on the road to enjoy it a little. So maybe a winter project?

Moparite: given my intended use I'm looking for an optimal use of the regular oil filter mounting setup, the pump I'm using is a HV pump but it is not a high-pressure setup. Some question the need to even run a HV setup, but I've got a 0.0035" clearance on the mains and 0.0023" on the rod journals, so the HV is what I felt would be a better approach.

EDIT
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Take a look at the quick chart I put together...the block inlet/outlet are by far the limitting factors here (I did not actually really just how limitting these are in terms of comparison between that and the filter itself).

In the end I simply added 4 new openings to the factory plate, but a smaller size so as not to jeopardize the plate's structure.