Ok - Sorry it took me so long to post something. I kept forgetting to take some pictures of my setup ... plus, the older I get, the harder it is to get down on the creeper and take pictures. No - wait, it's harder to get up off the creeper than it is to flop down on it. So a couple of comments, my car is a 1972 back-half Cuda with tubs. We welded up the back frame rails, main hoop and all the crossbars and then slid it all under the car, jacked it up and welded it in. Once the 2 x 4 cross member tube was welded into the rockers (on floor behind front seats), we made 2 x 3 sub-frame connectors that in the rear welded to the 2 x 4 cross member just in front of the spring boxes. The front of the sub-frame connectors is sunk into the floor at the rear and gradually, the floor rises to the point where the connectors no longer intersect with the floor. In the front, we were able to sink the 2 x 3 into the stock front sub-frame stampings. That front part really triangulated with the existing frame and made everything much more rigid. It was a lot of work getting everything to fit properly but I can jack the car up from the middle of the sub-frame connector and there is no body flex! The unibody was super flexible prior to all the frame work and stiffening. We used the Direct Connection spring relocation kit that came with two spring boxes for hanging the front spring eyes. Yes, I have ancient Supper Stock leaf springs. I reused the stock backing plates for drum brakes after having the Dana narrowed. The backing plates have all the OEM E-brake setup including the cables with cable housing and small ball ends on the cables. Once I got the rear end installed, I looked to see where the backing plate cable housing ends would land kinda on the inside where the spring box hit the 2 x 4 cross member. It looked like I could just make a little L bracket and weld it into the inside of the spring box and that would solve mounting the cables. Unfortunately, after putting the car back on the ground, the leaf springs flattened out and moved the centerline of the axel back probably ~2 inches. The cables were just a little too taught so I had to kinda rig a band-aid bracket about an inch further to the rear. If you look closely in the picture, you can see the double bracketing. Of course, where the pull cable (the one that moves when you press your foot on the E-Brake pedal) comes out under the car naturally wants to take the same space as the sub-frame connector so I had to open up holes on both sides and weld in a sleeve. That's shown in another picture. I used the stock S hook that hangs off the trans mount cross member. Once I had everything installed, the cable length adjuster would flop around and rattle against the driveshaft safety loop so I added a short piece of rubber tubing onto the end of the long adjuster stud. Oh - and I needed a shorter length ?intermediate? cable so I just cut the stock once and used a pair of cable U-bolt clamps to get the length I needed. This all has been working great for ~30 years. Hopefully, the pictures will help put some images to the explanation.
All pictures are from under the car
First picture is the pull cable
Second pic is the S-hook and adjuster stud
Third pic is a different angle of the adjuster stud and how it runs by the driveshaft safety loop tubing
Fourth pic is how the cables from the mounting plates are mounted to the inside of the spring perch boxes and the band-aid bracket needed to move the mounting point back just a little bit
