The launch looks very square for no anti roll bar. You must have the chassis dialed in right.

The engine should live at 7500 rpm but I think you're well past the power peak so that might be slowing you down a tad. 3.90 gears would probably drop you back into the 7000 range which is right around the peak. Changing to a taller tire might be less work, just depends if there is one available that fits your car.

Was wondering because several years ago a 451 using Modern’s B1 heads ran 9 teens - was wondering if these other heads were a power loss compared to the B1’s..

Looks like they are.

I have very limited tire selection at this time so the gear change is easier, I have a Super Victor with a 1150 Ultra Dominator

Great read, and info. guys....I searched out this post to query the experts here on my own situation. Currently running an iron 286 max wedge head, lightly rubbed on, and cast mw crossram, which I'm not changing. It's a period correct thing. The EZ-1 not only saves weight, but exhaust port location also allows me to keep the stainless headers that I prefer to only purchase once. I'm not rich, but am also not averse to buying the 325 EZ-1's, rockers, and/or investing in port/machine work to pick up some et. Current package is 511, @3700#, best 10.30@131, 1.31 60 on a 9" tire. Appreciate any input. Thanks.

Yeah a switch from iron MW heads to aluminum heads should pick up some power. You might consider Trick Flow 270 heads rather than the Indy EZ heads since I think they will provide more flow for the $. You'll have to take a close look at what the compression ratio will be with the new heads since the chamber size will probably change. You'll also want to think about changing the camshaft since the newer heads have a lot more low lift flow. Typically you need to keep the cam on the smaller side with the Trick Flow heads or else you'll blow the power out the exhaust.

Thank you for the feedback.

If your going to switch heads look at the Indy440-1, they flow a lot more air and make a lot more power than any other true wedge head available today
Do it once with no regrets later

IMO your stuff runs pretty good for the parts you are using. I'd be willing to bet if you swapped on the new INDY crossram that would gain you MORE increase than swapping heads!!! Cheaper too.

Interesting to know what was learned from this thread? I feel the competent consensus was not to expect any significant change because no significant change was planned to be made. There are a few examples of high HP 'pump-gas' builds to model. Some people are saying this can't be done. Some guys I am familiar with DON'T or haven't dyno-tested their engines and they do just fine. But the one's that run well, methodically chase after their combo for improvements. I've seen more than my share of good performers on the dyno that didn't translate into the car UNTIL supporting parts and tuning refinements were made!!! Just the same I've seen quite a few inflated dyno #'s. Not that it matters but, I'm curious what people think my 'old' 485" would 'dyno'.

In all the talk about heads remember one thing, you can take two heads that flow exactly the same but the head with a higher velocity of air moving through it will make mor HP, seen it on my bench many times. And don't assume that the money you spent on CNC porting will solve the problem, seen several CNC ported heads with a lazy air flow in the port, bigger is not always better.

[spoiler][/spoiler]Why flow numbers mean as much as dyno numbers. Most high end head porters care way more about cross section and port CC than a flow number. Its usually the customers pushing for that number because they read it on the interwebs.

A dyno is just a tool. I now guys that will wear there junk out on the dyno and just toss it in the car and expect a miracle to occur. Been pretty rare that a great tune on the dyno was what the car wanted on the track.

As for Hardcores engine on an honest dyno I would say its a 700ish HP piece. But it was also not in the car long enough to be fully sorted out. But MPH tells the tale whether ET does or not. But that same engine on other dynos could make 800, its a tool not a be all end all.

Yes, it'd 'showed' low-mid 7xx. That was my point, like most other combo's, they are unsorted as far as adjusting in the car. On the dyno, I'm pretty sure it'd dyno better than it showed. Which is for the few in here that wonder if it has been/can be done. To better show, with an example, of what it took to get better numbers out of similar 'core' parts. Among other places, I have learned from here what goes with what. And it's caused many delays in WHEN I finally decided to 'commission' what i wanted mostly because, I didn't want something 'common'. But there are probably many here that wouldn't stack the same parts together.

Dynos are simply a tool, some tools are better than others. No different than a flow bench, desk top dyno or whatever. One can tell when a car is an over achiever vs and under achiever. But certain things are pretty concrete. Like MPH and Weight, they dont lie as a true measure of HP. People chasing dyno numbers and flow numbers rarely have the fortitude to fully sort out their combos and are content to quote meaningless HP and flow numbers....