I was told I need to drop the pcv valve and put in an air breather in my 5.9 mag and see if that helps some stuttering problems.
Do they make an air breather that fits where the pvc valve is now? or do I need to punch a hole somewhere?
2000 durango is what the motor came out of.

It may be the PVC valve itself, Go into more detail of what your issues is.

running megasquirt efi.
once the engine is at operating temp and ambient air is over 80 F.
randomly it seems the engine will drop rpm or stutter. just like bogging it down with too much fuel.
for the most part it doesn't seem to only be at idle as I have had it happen while moving too.
it doesn't kill it off and if it does die( cause it does sometimes putting it into gear) it fires right back up again.
watched it on the megasquirt software and don't see any signal drops and I can track both fuel and spark when it happens.
it doesn't happen when it is cold outside, or when the engine is just warming up.

was talking to fastman efi and he said to drop the pcv. because it is a giant air leak.
figured I would give that a try and put on a breather.
if that doesn't solve it, I pretty much am going to drop the coin to get a supported system so I don't have to do the tech support myself.

Factory 1994-1995 Magnum 5.9V8 engines had a Air Breather on the driver’s side and the PCV on the passenger side.

This factory Air Breather had a hose nipple, which connected to a hose that connected to a nipple at the air cleaner housing.
You could just leave the nipple unconnected.

The factory PCV valve does not have a good design of baffles beneath it and lets a lot of liquid oil droplets get through to the intake manifold.

A catch can to trap this oil is a good addition.

The oil that gets by could cause idle stumbles, as the oil is equivalent to extra fuel.

It can also cause pinging/pre-ignition due to carbon deposit build up on “soapdish” Magnum piston tops.

Yamaha “Ringfree” is a good carbon deposit remover
as is BMW dealership “Ventril Sauber” by Lubro Moly GMBH.

If the Megasquirt can be adjusted to run good on a Magnum style V8 I would like to try that in order to run a very lean air fuel ratio and a wide range oxygen sensor.

Best of luck.

it is a 2000 engine.
I guess I could just leave the pcv open to air instead of leaving it connected to the intake.

That would be a good quick experiment.

In general, not running a PCV is a bad idea. I am adding one to my flathead six because without one it tends to sludge up the oil.

I seriously doubt the megasquirt can't be tuned to handle a PCV valve.

For sure not running a valve can be detrimental. Something for you to check on. Some of the later than 2000's, 4.0 Jeeps and some others didn't use a valve but had a metered orifice in the hardline going into the throttle body or manifold. Think of a carb jet in the line. Called it the CCV system if I remember correctly. You need something along that line to extract the gasses that collect in the crankcase and run them through. Keeps the engine clean on the inside, keeps oil cleaner etc.

1995 iron V10 Ram pickup engines also used a metered orifice instead of a conventional PCV.

Some method to sweep water vapor and other piston ring blowby products out of the crankcase is important.

I'll (hopefully) attach photos of my 2001, driver and passenger sides. The passenger side "PCV" is merely a hollow elbow, and the rubber hose is just a rubber hose; no valve in there. Hope this helps.

I run a PCV valve on my stroked 5.9 Magnum, and run the hose from it through a traditional compressed air water trap and then into the intake manifold. It sure does fill the trap up quickly when doing short trips during the winter.

thanks, that is an interesting idea of hollowing one out.
I think I have a hose connection on my air cleaner too, and might plumb it in there so it doesn't affect the air intake past the throttle body, if it works short term just leaving i toff.

Are you still running the stock intake? If so the plenum gasket may be leaking.

Yes Very Common Problem.

Open the throttle blades all the way and look into the intake with a flashlight. If you see a bunch of oil in the bottom it is probably the bottom pan of the intake leaking.

This link shows the intake off and the pan

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...r-plenum-gasket-pictures-post-up-20.html

yes stock intake, but I pulled it and resealed it after I got it.

I did an initial test yesterday plugging the pcv hose to the intake, I didn't hear it stutter like before. but my test got cut short due to the rain coming in.
will try again this weekend or maybe today if I get time.

but shout out to fastman efi if this works. he didn't have to tell me what it might be, but did and it probably cost him a sale because I was prepared to just chuck all of this and get a new system with support.

The earlier 1994-1995 Magnum V8s had a noticeably “rough” idle with all specs to factory.

A friend down at Rockingham years ago told me had made his 5.9 V8 idle “Lexus Smooth”
by advancing his camshaft timing 10 degrees with a timing chain gear offset keyway.
If you input the 1995 OEM valve timing event degrees listed in the FSM for a Magnum 5.9V8
into the Performance Trends Engine Analyzer computer program it reports that the 1995 cam is installed with slightly more than 14 degrees of retard.

My 1995 Magnum 5.9 V8 surprised me with a “Lexus Smooth” idle
when I took the radiator fan off after changing the stock 50/50 coolant to Evans Cooling NPG coolant.
At idle in park the coolant gauge would level off just short of 300 degrees and the idle was much smoother, and without the fan it was much quieter too.

In 1998 Dodge changed the camshaft.
Some year Dodge made the internal aluminum divider insider the “Beer Barrel” intake manifold shorter, leaving a bigger bottom gap.
Sometime between 1995 and 2000 Dodge swapped the sides that the PCV and Breather are on, like the pictures above show.
I do not know if they improved the oil droplet baffling hidden inside the Magnum valve covers.

The PCV later ended up on the valve cover that has the oil fill cap.
I wonder if the internal guts of that valve cover is different?

that is a pretty neat idea. i might "steal" that idea for use on my minivan, because it is mostly short trips since retirement many years ago.

I always used breathers in my "performance" motors. Sucking in the vapor from a crankcase into the motor didn't sound like a good idea. Another option you guys should consider...
https://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/...YxKT19gIVc-W1Ch1vXAY-EAQYBCABEgLu6fD_BwE

Perhaps a canister whose inside is filled with oil droplet baffles should be pressed into the hole in the valve cover and then the PCV inserted into the top of the canister?

There has got to be an engine valve cover already designed that does a superior job of keeping liquid oil drops from the PCV.
The PCV should only suck away gases.

The boiling point temperature of high quality engine lube oils should be way too high.

I am sitting here wondering if the
“AMC rocker arm oiling design” generates more oil droplets than
the “better high rpm stability” Chrysler design shaft mounted rocker arms?

Oil spraying out of 8 pushrods might be the “root cause” ?

It looks like you are using the factory throttle body. Have you tried changing out the IAC valve? They are known to fail.