Looking for a recommendation on a BBC rod.

Building a 470 low deck 400 based stroker. 3.9 stroke crank with 2.2 rod journals.


BBC rods are all over the place, I can buy a new set of 8 from $199.00 to $999.00

If you have used a BBC rod in a mopar, what brands/company did you have good results with?
What was your rod/piston combo?

Thanks

I've used many different brands of BB Chevy H beam rods over the years starting back in 1999 or 2000 with a set of CAT 6.800 long in my first 4.25 stroker 400 block pump gas stroker build for my old Duster.
Dram, Dan RIP, hated them because they were made in China, they worked fine for me
I have used them since then on other builds under 800 HP with no issues.
My current 505 C.I. 400 block build has a set of Carillo 6.700 long BB Chevy style I beam rods, I've used a bunch of the Molnar H beam BB Chevy rods in both7.100, 6.700 and 6.800 long with his 4.250 stroke low deck cranks for 440 and 400 block builds: up:
I've also used several sets of Scat rods like the Molnars with no issues, I do use the stock type Chevy H and I beam rods with their stock width, not the wider rods made for Mopar width
I bought a set of the Scat Mopar type rods to use in a pump gas 572 C.I. B1 build to sell along with buying a set of their 7.100 long BB Chevy type rods to use in a 3.91 stroke low deck 383 build

When it comes to h-beams my personal preference is Scat.
I have used Eagle, Liberty, Scat, and Ohio crank. In many applications. Chevy small block,big block, and strokers, Ford strokers, Mopar big block, small blocks, and strokers.
Most of the time w/8740 bolts, sometimes 2000,s, and just a few L-19's.
That being said I wouldn't hesitate because of quality on any brand we except maybe speedmaster. Pretty much the same tech across the board. Ican't see the benifit of spending 1000+$ on a particular set of h-beams with the above mentioned out there.

due to supply chain issues you may have to use what you can find that you can physically put your hands on. Don't forget bearings and gaskets, I have used Ohio Crankshaft rods for the last several builds I have done. No problems. Birdtracker

If it was me I would talk to Molnar...

1-616-940-4640

If you put together 6 different engines and each had a different brand of Chinese rod I don't think you would be able to tell a difference. I don't think any of the Chinese rods are going to break. We have no idea where these things are made or if any are better than the others. They are all probably made by the same 12 year old girl in China.

The last set of rods I bought were Callies Ultras just because I wanted to buy US made rods and I didn't want to feel I cheaped out on anything since all of the other parts were so expensive.

Kind of depends on the head being used. Edelbrock heads will work with most any rods, Trick Flow heads I'd use SCAT or Molnar, B1 heads I'd go with something from the premium line such as Callies, Crower, Carillio, etc.

6.535 Eagle H beam, ,offset ground factory forged 440 crank. Icon piston. Edelbrock head 6200-6300 r.p.m. Up to 17 p.s.i. so far, but running it about 12 most of the time.Still inside the engine& in one piece.

There are a few flavors of 2.2 rod journal for BB mopar cranks. You can have chevy diameter and width, or chevy diameter and mopar width. The aftermarket covers both but I would first see what is available that will match your crank specs. If its a true BB chevy rod journal my vote would me on Molnar.
AG.

Andy: could you explain why a different cylinder head would like a different rod? thanks. Birdtracker

As the horsepower potential of the heads goes up, he's recommending better rods

Horse power has squat to do with rod selection. Bob weight, rpm, and whether running boost is the true indicator of what you need. Now granted higher HP may be run at a higher rpm.
Doug

I have run Manley Hemi 6.965 h beams, molnar in 6.860 with 2.2 rod bearings, and now 7.10. all with 880 hp to 926 hp, all seeing 7400 trap and a few burnouts that hit the limmiter at 7600+. 4.50 bore pistons. No issues. All 2000 bolts. Never a problem.

Thanks for all the replies.

Haven't selected heads yet but they will be standard port aluminum.
A few other build specs
Weiand t ram with twin 450 Holley's
640 ultradyne cam.
Steel fact 440 crank off set ground to 3.9 stroke and 2.2 journal.
I'm open to either 6.535 or 6.7 rod length

I'm sure I'll be under 600 hp

That's should give everyone a HP limit.

Sounds like Molnar are a good brand.

I've built several 400 block pump gas stroker motors with different heads and different solid roller cams than yours that didn't struggle to make 600+ HP with a six pack and with RPM air gap intakes with an 850 CFM D.P. Holley carbs
If you're wanting more power use bigger carbs like 750 CFM D.P. or maybe even 750 vacuum secondaries, I'm greedy when it comes to power, I like a lot of it
What are the cam specs on yours, lobe lift, lobe timing at .050 lobe lift and lobe separation angle?
is it installed straight up or advanced or retarded on the intake lobes?

Have to agree with the consensus here in that; pic one and don't worry about it. By the sounds of it your still in the acquiring stages of the build with that being the case I wouldn't even offset grind a stock crank $$$. That is unless you get in a pinch and need parts now and they are only available for that combo. But it seems the 451/511 low-deck has the most 'shelf' options AND plenty of it floating around 'used', if you're on a budget. Also put some 650's OR 750's on that TR.

Molnar's don't require a ton of clearancing , and that can make a difference..........I have experience with the small block versions , but I think it holds true for others too.
Rod bolts should be mentioned too. For clamping consistency , use the best you can afford , or spring for the upgrade if you are ordering a set.
ARP 2000 over standard chromemoly for sure.
L-19 might be over kill for your deal.
The high end rod manufacturers have proprietary bolts in many cases and what they offer is plenty good.

Its a very easy answer...Molnar, and dont look back. .