That was a cold temp reading...
I ordered another oil pressure gauge/tool because the one I'm using goes up to 500psi... I want one that'll read a little more accurately so I'm getting the one that goes up to 150psi... The other gauge is probably fine, I just think the new gauge will be more appropriate...
I still haven't ordered the new pressure switch, I'm still trying to find the correct one! Idk if it's 1/8th but that isn't so much the issue now as finding the one with correct psi rating... The one I have say 12-3psi I believe but it could be the wrong one, ordered that long ago and not sure if it's correct. It was new, had the 3 blades and it fit... I'm pretty sure I saw the oil light function at some point but...

Went on another 90 miles drive to the store! No issues at all! I readjusted the air/fuel and also the timing after last time, it was a little off. I still have no idea the mpg's, that'll take a while to figure out.

Well, until I get the pressure switch figured out I have to inspect the bearings/brakes and whatever else is important I haven't gotten around to yet...

I also got my new $30 fuel pump for my S10... Hopefully it'll last a while! Looks decent for $30!

I'll keep y'all updated! Thanks Bob!

I'm having trouble finding any information on which pressure switch I need for my van...
I've seen a few on eBay but there's a wide variety of switches that look the same and they don't detail the pressure range of the unit. Are they all fairly similar or are they too different for me to just randomly pick one??
I'll just provide some links to the switches I'm looking at...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-LIGHT-...46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-Standa...46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

So these are the two that appear to fit my motor... Any difference between the two? Will either of these work on my engine???

Ebay is horrible for application purposes.

It's a switch, this is what you need

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=932295&cc=1075283&pt=4588&jsn=449

If you need the connector/plug

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2677436&cc=1075283&pt=2603&jsn=478

if i were to choose one, the Standard brand would be the one i would pick.
the first one has an M10x1 thread. that is metric, and why it is listed in the description.
do you have a link for your van ? "Dodge B300 van ??? engine oil pressure switch - enter [i forget the year of your van and engine size. 360/5.9 ?]
did you post a picture of your original switch ?
i have a couple of Standard Products master catalogs. if you refresh my mind with the year and engine size, i'll look up what the replacement sender should be.

that rock auto link sure looks like what is needed.

I totally forgot about RockAuto! The main reason I don't usually use them is because there's always a shipping cost but in all fairness their prices are very cheap!
Once again and certainly not the last time, thanks!

I have the original connector/plug but with the old burnt up wiring... If I can find a way to dig them out I could reuse it!

Either way thanks.

I know you saw the link Sniper posted so, part found and no need to search but either way you got it right, 79' B300 360 5.9 2bbl... once again, I appreciate it!

Surprise! I'm back!
This is going to be a quick one so I didn't want to open a new thread...
I'm reluctant on this one because I think I already know the answer...
There's gurgling/boiling noise coming from the exhaust after the motor has been shut off! There was also some liquid which I can safely assume is coolant 'splattering' out of the exhaust... There's some crackling/popping noise coming out the exhaust at idle but up front the engine sounds smooth and It drives fine...

Blown head gasket???

FYI I just got done sealing up the exhaust system, could the back pressure difference been enough to blow out an already deteriorating seal?

Btw, the oil is clean...

Condensation and fuel byproducts. Quit worrying.

condensation & junk. i agree with Nitrousn.
as to backpressure blowing a seal, what seal ?
i'm easy to confuse son, so unless someone pounded a potato into your tail pipe, i wouldn't worry about backpressure.

As long as you are not loosing coolant (check it cold), I wouldn't worry about it. How much have you driven the van since the motor work was done?

If you are loosing some coolant, the 1st thing I would check would be to be sure all the hose clamp are tight and you don't have a bad/defective hose.

I guess I mean whatever is keeping the fluid from coming through into the combustion chamber but that wouldn't make sense since it would be apparent in the oil... Idk, every now and then I'll say things that don't make sense...

I only brought it up because I've heard of changes in pressure due to removal of the cat. messing with the engine performance... Since my exhaust had a bunch of pinholes and I had just repaired it all I thought maybe there was something there? I'm always trying to connect dots...

Turns out Nitrousn was right...
I hadn't filled up the tank in over a year and I just got a bunch of gas so...

I've been losing coolant for years but that's because I was always struggling with this one bolt on the head. One of the bolts goes through into the water jacket(I think that's what it's called) had a bolt broken in it and I took it to a mechanic to extract. This was years ago when I first got the van. So the mechanic extracted the bolt but didn't leave much thread left and coolant was always leaking out there and onto the exhaust so there always always this sweet smell and coolant leaking. I tried to seal it a bunch of times with rtv#2 with no success until I found out I can use plumbers tape to seal it and it's been holding since!
The other leak I had was at the thermostat housing because the gaskets always split there so that's one of the things I just fixed. I used a gasket and the grey gasket maker(Great stuff) this time and the gasket still split but the sealer seams to be holding so no more leaks currently!

So now that everything is sealed up I hopefully won't be smelling anymore coolant and I'll be able to monitor the fluid level...

Now, since I'm here I should mention that the tranny has had some fluid coming out from the inspection cover... I noticed a little drip hanging but not enough to fall to the ground. A few days ago I noticed it progressively got worse and was dripping slowly onto the exhaust and ground, it was maybe like a drop every 30 seconds...
Well, I just went out for a quick drive on my land and it's not dripping anymore!
Could me backing up really fast have caused some fluid to move forward and out?
It's driving and shifting fine, no weird noises that I can tell...
I'm hoping this is just another false alarm...

I just went on another drive around the block and it's definitely leaking...
It's just hanging there... Not really dripping... I'll wipe it and it'll stay clean until the next drive... The other day it was dripping about every 30 seconds...
The level is a little on the high side...


Edit/update: I went on another drive and the drip seams really inconsistent and I checked the level HOT and it's a little over the Full mark. Since there doesn't seem to be any mechanical issues and there's no irregular noises I will assume it just has too much fluid! It's weird because when I finished rebuilding the trans I added the exact amount required and when I checked it hot it was below the full mark... Not sure what happened, maybe I didn't push the stick down enough the first times...
The stick kinda snags at the end and the top part at the handle also fits weird...
I will also add that about one out of four times that I checked the dipstick there seamed to be some small bubbles in it and that was today but like I said, no issues that I've noticed.
Anyway, I'll take a little fluid out and hope that's all it was.

Well, if anyone's been paying attention, the last post I mentioned a leak and the fluid level was a little high...
I unscrewed the hydraulic line to drain a little fluid and got the level down to between E and F, exactly where it's suppose to be...
Ok well today I went to do laundry and had to drive about 20 miles round trip. Nothing seemed out of wack but it dawned on me that I forgot to hook up the rod to the control lever on the tranny!!!!
I stopped and hooked it up and I noticed oil leaking from the pan gasket not the bell housing... Just a little oil though...
I had to stop and put it in park a couple of times on the way home after this and after shifting into Drive from Park it would shift fine but it takes a second for the power to transfer to the tires and when it does it thuds! This thudding has happened a handful of times, ...
I rechecked the fluid level after this drive and now the level is way above the Full mark, like almost half an inch!!! Why? I filled the tranny with the specified 8 quarts when I rebuilt it, I checked and adjusted the fluid more than once at operating temp so...
Is the proper operating temp after a freeway drive because these different temps are obviously affecting the fluid level and I'm getting tired of the level being off every time I check it when I've already adjusted it!!!
Maybe I do have too much fluid and it's getting air bubbles sometimes and that's what's causing the delay in power transfer to the wheels?
This is just really frustrating after rebuilding it twice, triple and quadruple checking everything and then this! I also hope driving it without the control lever hooked up didn't cause serious damage!

You all know I appreciate the help! Thank you in advance...

Assuming you did fill it correctly, the only other source of fluid that would raise the level you are seeing would be coolant from the radiator leaking into the trans fluid cooler. But that usually looks like foamy strawberry milk. Odds are you;d also see red flaoting atop the coolant if you check it cold.

You have to check the AFT with the van on a level surface, after it has warmed up (its suppose to be up to operating temp), and the trans fluid has to be checked with the trans in neutral. Anything else gives you a false reading.

Its not unusual for the torque converter to drain down after setting for a while (I've seen them start to drain down in a few hours) on a Mopar. Add to that, the pump inside the trans does not pump the fluid while the trans is in park. That means that if the converter has drained down some, and you check it in park, its going to read over full.

I would put more money on a converter drain down and improper fluid level checking then any other cause. Coolant leaking into the trans caused be a radiator cooler issue is pretty rare, but if that is it, the trans is going to fail quickly, and probably already needs to be rebuilt! Water from the cooling system will break down the glue that holds the clutch material to the steel. Been there, done that, but in my case the water didn't come from the trans cooler. The trans was toast in less then 1,000 miles, and the fluid looked like a strawberry milk shake the 1st time.

I've owned a lot of Mopars over the years, for me, and everyone in my household, when ever we start one of our vehicles (we only have Mopars here) that has been sitting more then a couple hours, we put the trans in neutral for at least 30 seconds before we put it in drive or reverse. That gives the pump in the trans time to refill the converter. If you start it up, and immediately put it in drive (or reverse) and go, you may not have enough fluid in the converter for the trans to function instantly and you get a delayed action from the trans. If you have your foot into the gas pedal, it makes it worse. That eventually causes premature wear on the trans clutch pack and bands.

Conclusion: When ever you start your van, put the trans in neutral for the count of 30, before you put it in either drive or reverse. When you check the fluid, you make sure the van is sitting level, start it and do the neutral thing, then shift it into drive, then into reverse at least a couple of times, then shift it into neutral, pull the trans dipstick and wipe it off, then reinsert the dipstick (being sure its all the way down) then check the fluid. The fluid probably isn't up to operating temp, but at least it should read close. Only add fluid if the level is at or below the add line. Over filling is as bad as underfilling. If it reads over full, I suggest you take it for a ride and recheck it. If its way over full, you will need to drain some off. Drain it off by slightly loosening one of the cooler lines. Have a container ready, it will drain off pretty fast. Be sure you don't drain too much off.

On the fluid drip, its not uncommon for the seals around the shift lever to leak a bit. That leak will run down the trans case to the trans pan, and then follow the pan to the lowest point before dripping off. Another common leak is at the bottom of the dipstick tube where it enters the trans. That leak also runs down the trans case and to the trans pan where it will follow to the lowest point before it falls off. Of those two leaks, the dipstick leak is the easiest to fix, the shift seal leak would have to be pretty bad before I'd be jumping to fix it. When the converter drains down, that extra fluid ends up in the trans pan, and brings the fluid level above both of these seals which causes them to leak. Gene

No, there's no leeks like that, I would've noticed that.
When I rebuilt it for the second time the tc already had a little fluid and I drained it as best I can . The manual says to add 8 litres so I added about 7.7 litres... I've been checking the fluid after warming it up by idling and driving around the block.
I know the hotter it gets the more pressure is created therefore raising the fluid level so now I'm assuming the proper way is when it's "freeway hot"... I can't think of doing anything else other than drain it a little more...